Date: Mon, 27 May 2002 14:09:40 -0400
Reply-To: "G. Matthew Bulley" <gmbulley@BULLEY-HEWLETT.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: "G. Matthew Bulley" <gmbulley@BULLEY-HEWLETT.COM>
Organization: Bulley-Hewlett
Subject: Re: Dynamat install ?'s on front doors(long)
In-Reply-To: <5.1.0.14.0.20020527125107.02cc54b0@pop.ipa.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
I write a bit about that on the noise/rust/heat page...
ANYTHING you do toward insulating had better be supported by a lot of
thought, and careful junk-yard research.
There are plenty of folks out there who will recommend using roofing
materials instead of noise dampening tiles, or spray foam in lieu of
more thoroughly tested methods of panel insulation. When in doubt, head
over to the pick 'n' pull, and look over the chopped up Lexus, Mercedes,
Infinity, and Cadillac carcasses; (where you can see inside cavities).
Do what they do and nothing else.
Pax--
G. Matthew Bulley
Mount Olive, NC
-----Original Message-----
From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM] On Behalf
Of Max Wellhouse
Sent: Monday, May 27, 2002 1:53 PM
To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
Subject: Re: Dynamat install ?'s on front doors(long)
I would think that a home type fiberglass insulation in the front doors
would cause some serious moisture absorption problems and eventually
rusting in there.
Max
At 12:28 PM 5/27/2002 -0500, Andrew Bell wrote:
>Hey Max -
>
>I just noise-proofed he '87 Syncro. This is my second Van, and the
first,
>an '84
>GL was done with conventional DynaMat to the tune of $125 for a portion
of the
>space I thought should be 'Matted.
>
>With this Syncro, I took a different approach and used spray on
rubberized
>undercoating to replace the DynaMat. In the large panel areas I tossed
in some
>fiberglass to deaden it. the Syncro was REALLY noisy before, and now
it's even
>quieter than the other Van turned out to be. As for the front doors, I
got
>some
>cups that go behind the speaks (I have the JBL GTO 2x kit...) sprayed
the heck
>out of the door with some insulation on the extreme top and bottom.
>
>With the insulation it was about $32 - $7 for the insulation, and the
>balance on
>the "professional" grade undercoating.
>
>Just what I did -
>
>AB
>
>Max Wellhouse wrote:
>
> > My poor old 20 year old Nakamichi SP400 stereo speakers finally
coughed up
> > their last Basia tune the other day, and after finding out
replacement
> > drivers for them ran $80 each from the Nak website, I went speaker
> > shopping. didn't like anything I heard until I listened to a set of
6"
> > Focal 2 way 165H's at a high end car stereo place in town.
Tweeters are
> > separate and have their own crossover and the kit was about
$300(their
> > kevlar woofer model was like $550 a set!). Installed the
woofer(really a
> > big mid range as I have 8" R/F Punch woofers under the back seat)
about a
> > foot up from the bottom of the door and the tweeter under the stock
> > Vanagon location. They don't sound nearly as good in the van as
they did
> > in the store, and after feeling how much the bottom of the door
vibrates
> > with this new 6 " speaker in there, I think I see why Dynamat is in
> business.
> >
> > The Dynamat is supposed to soak up the vibration and make the
speaker sound
> > better and I've heard enough testimonials to that effect to be
> > convinced. My question(s) run something like this:
> > 1. With the fresh air channel in the van's front doors, how do you
> > properly clean the metal door surface so the Dynamat will stick?
Not only
> > is it dirty under there, It appears to be hell getting any cleaning
> > technique to work. I assume I leave the factory plastic intact, or
do I
> > remove it for cleaning and install and then return it or replace it
after
> > I'm done?
> > 2. Dynamat sales folk say the Extreme Dynamat requires less
"rolling and
> > heating" and is lighter weight(guessing for roof installations). Is
it
> > worth the extra cost considering the tight quarters we're working
with?
> > 3. Does the entire door need to be deadend or just "x" number of
square
> > feet near the speaker? I couldn't believe how much that door shook
with
> > the volume up
> > 4. Any tips on advantages of doing other vehicle panels with this
> > stuff. It is kinda expensive, but a quieter van is a good thing I
think,
> > stereo or no stereo.
> > 5. What sort of solvent/cleaner worked best in your experience?
Acetone?
> > Xylene? Zep orange stuff? Misty LimoSol? 409?
> >
> > I can't imagine doing the roof of the van, but any help on doing
floors/
> > firewall /back hatch/rear bed area/side door/side panels would be
greatly
> > appreciated. There has to be a point of diminishing returns here
and I may
> > do this project one section at a time as funds are available. I do
have to
> > save enough money here to buy a new radiator this summer!!
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Dimwitted Moose and Flying Squirrel
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