Date: Mon, 27 May 2002 12:28:22 -0500
Reply-To: Andrew Bell <andrewbell@QWEST.NET>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Andrew Bell <andrewbell@QWEST.NET>
Subject: Re: Dynamat install ?'s on front doors(long)
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Hey Max -
I just noise-proofed he '87 Syncro. This is my second Van, and the first, an '84
GL was done with conventional DynaMat to the tune of $125 for a portion of the
space I thought should be 'Matted.
With this Syncro, I took a different approach and used spray on rubberized
undercoating to replace the DynaMat. In the large panel areas I tossed in some
fiberglass to deaden it. the Syncro was REALLY noisy before, and now it's even
quieter than the other Van turned out to be. As for the front doors, I got some
cups that go behind the speaks (I have the JBL GTO 2x kit...) sprayed the heck
out of the door with some insulation on the extreme top and bottom.
With the insulation it was about $32 - $7 for the insulation, and the balance on
the "professional" grade undercoating.
Just what I did -
AB
Max Wellhouse wrote:
> My poor old 20 year old Nakamichi SP400 stereo speakers finally coughed up
> their last Basia tune the other day, and after finding out replacement
> drivers for them ran $80 each from the Nak website, I went speaker
> shopping. didn't like anything I heard until I listened to a set of 6"
> Focal 2 way 165H's at a high end car stereo place in town. Tweeters are
> separate and have their own crossover and the kit was about $300(their
> kevlar woofer model was like $550 a set!). Installed the woofer(really a
> big mid range as I have 8" R/F Punch woofers under the back seat) about a
> foot up from the bottom of the door and the tweeter under the stock
> Vanagon location. They don't sound nearly as good in the van as they did
> in the store, and after feeling how much the bottom of the door vibrates
> with this new 6 " speaker in there, I think I see why Dynamat is in business.
>
> The Dynamat is supposed to soak up the vibration and make the speaker sound
> better and I've heard enough testimonials to that effect to be
> convinced. My question(s) run something like this:
> 1. With the fresh air channel in the van's front doors, how do you
> properly clean the metal door surface so the Dynamat will stick? Not only
> is it dirty under there, It appears to be hell getting any cleaning
> technique to work. I assume I leave the factory plastic intact, or do I
> remove it for cleaning and install and then return it or replace it after
> I'm done?
> 2. Dynamat sales folk say the Extreme Dynamat requires less "rolling and
> heating" and is lighter weight(guessing for roof installations). Is it
> worth the extra cost considering the tight quarters we're working with?
> 3. Does the entire door need to be deadend or just "x" number of square
> feet near the speaker? I couldn't believe how much that door shook with
> the volume up
> 4. Any tips on advantages of doing other vehicle panels with this
> stuff. It is kinda expensive, but a quieter van is a good thing I think,
> stereo or no stereo.
> 5. What sort of solvent/cleaner worked best in your experience? Acetone?
> Xylene? Zep orange stuff? Misty LimoSol? 409?
>
> I can't imagine doing the roof of the van, but any help on doing floors/
> firewall /back hatch/rear bed area/side door/side panels would be greatly
> appreciated. There has to be a point of diminishing returns here and I may
> do this project one section at a time as funds are available. I do have to
> save enough money here to buy a new radiator this summer!!
>
> Thanks,
>
> Dimwitted Moose and Flying Squirrel
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