Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2002 17:02:39 -0500
Reply-To: wilden1@JUNO.COM
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Stan Wilder <wilden1@JUNO.COM>
Subject: Re: Vanagon handling.
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Did you replace the tie rod ends and ball joints and buschings yourself?
-------------------------
$275.00 Labor on installing my parts $42.00 alignment, got parts from Bus
Depot about $200.00
Stan
On Mon, 10 Jun 2002 12:56:39 -0700 mike ingle <mikei@ANCORE.COM> writes:
> Thanks, so it sounds like I want to scavenge my springs off my 80
> westy.
> Did you replace the tie rod ends and ball joints and buschings
> yourself?
> How big is the job (afternoon or whole weekend ++)
>
> Mike
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <wilden1@juno.com>
> To: <mikei@ancore.com>
> Sent: Monday, June 10, 2002 11:03 AM
> Subject: Re: Vanagon handling.
>
>
> > My 83 handles firmer and drives straighter than 85-87 Vanagons
> I've
> > driven.(never driven an 85-87 Westy)
> > I have Agilis 61 tires the 83 and they have greatly improved the
> > handling.
> > Everything else is stock with 150K on the shocks but new ball
> joints, tie
> > rod ends, control arm bushings.
> > Hope this helps.
> > 80-83 Vanagons and Westies had the stiffest springs ever
> installed, even
> > heavier than any stock syncro.
> >
> > Stan Wilder
> > 83 Air Cooled Westfalia
> >
> >
> > On Mon, 10 Jun 2002 10:48:23 -0700 "mike ingle"
> <mikei@ancore.com>
> > writes:
> > > I have no inherent desire to do major parts swapping, The real
> > > question is:
> > > Does the 87 w/ power steering and good shocks, and tie rod ends
> > > ball
> > > joints... handle as well as the manual steered 80?
> > >
> > > Can I just get rid of the 80 w/ confidence that good handling
> can
> > > be
> > > restored to the 87 using stock replacements?
> > > In case you can't tell I really appreciate the Vanagon
> handling,
> > > compared to
> > > the type ii. And the space.
> > >
> > > Mike
> > >
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: <wilden1@juno.com>
> > > To: <mikei@ANCORE.COM>
> > > Cc: <vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM>
> > > Sent: Monday, June 10, 2002 10:34 AM
> > > Subject: Re: Vanagon handling.
> > >
> > >
> > > > The steering control arms on the later model power steering
> arms
> > > are
> > > > shorter, IE you'll need to change the spindles.
> > > > Outer wheel bearings are bigger on the later models.
> > > > Springs will swap.
> > > > Rack and pinion will swap, using old 80 spindles.
> > > > I think I'd be looking for a simpler solution, new shocks,
> front
> > > end
> > > > alignment, ball joints or such and bypass the parts swapping.
> > > >
> > > > Stan Wilder
> > > >
> > > > On Mon, 10 Jun 2002 10:08:24 -0700 mike ingle
> <mikei@ANCORE.COM>
> > > writes:
> > > > > I have an 80 Westfalia which I just replaced with an 87
> > > weekender. I
> > > > > test
> > > > > drove it away from a highway, and didn't notice the
> difference
> > > in
> > > > > handling.
> > > > >
> > > > > The 87 seems to have several inches more ground clearance,
> and
> > > a
> > > > > much softer
> > > > > suspension. It also has power steering (yuck). The jist of
> it
> > > is
> > > > > that
> > > > > unlike my 80 and my old 82 diesel westy (oh how I miss that
> one)
> > > ,
> > > > > It feels
> > > > > less stable than a type ii (73 to be exact). So, before I
> > > > > donate... the 80
> > > > > Westy, Is it feasable to change out the power steering for
> rack
> > > and
> > > > > pinion
> > > > > manual steering? What about the springs etc. Visually I
> like
> > > the
> > > > > high
> > > > > clearance, and I can imagine that I would be nice for those
> > > rough
> > > > > areas.
> > > > > But, I really miss the good handling.
> > > > >
> > > > > Mike
> > > > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > > > From: "Michael Ramer" <elvisramer@COX.NET>
> > > > > To: <vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM>
> > > > > Sent: Monday, June 10, 2002 9:46 AM
> > > > > Subject: Re: Cylinder head sticking to cylinder sleeve
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > > Yes, what Ken said works great! And do both heads! You do
> not
> > > want
> > > > > to go
> > > > > > through this again. Easier to do it now.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Regards, Mike
> > > > > >
> > > > > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > > > > From: "Kenneth Wilford" <kenwilfy@COMCAST.NET>
> > > > > > To: <vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM>
> > > > > > Sent: Monday, June 10, 2002 5:19 AM
> > > > > > Subject: Re: Cylinder head sticking to cylinder sleeve
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > > > I have found the easiest way to do this. Pull the
> heads
> > > out
> > > > > from the
> > > > > > block
> > > > > > > about 1/2 inch. Take the end of a screw driver and
> place
> > > it
> > > > > against one
> > > > > > of
> > > > > > > the little nubs that stick out at the top of the
> cylinder.
> > > Now
> > > > > you want
> > > > > > to
> > > > > > > hit this nub in such as way that you turn the cylinder
> just
> > > a
> > > > > little.
> > > > > You
> > > > > > > only want to turn it a couple of degrees. Once it
> turns
> > > (should
> > > > > only
> > > > > take
> > > > > > a
> > > > > > > couple of hits) you want to go to the nub on the
> opposite
> > > side
> > > > > of the
> > > > > > > cylinder and turn it back. Now do the same with the
> other
> > > > > cylinder.
> > > > > Now
> > > > > > > just put your screw driver between the head and one of
> > > these
> > > > > nubs and
> > > > > pry
> > > > > > > just a little. The cylinder should come right off of
> the
> > > head
> > > > > and then
> > > > > > > repeat for the other cylinder. This should not hurt
> the
> > > o-rings
> > > > > at the
> > > > > > > bottom of the cylinder since you are actually pulling
> the
> > > bottom
> > > > > of the
> > > > > > > cylinder away from the block about 1/2 inch.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > I did this the last head job I did and it worked like a
> > > charm.
> > > > > No
> > > > > damage
> > > > > > > done and alot less hitting, and time consumed. Hope
> this
> > > > > helps.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Thanks,
> > > > > > > Ken Wilford
> > > > > > > John 3:16
> > > > > > > http://www.vanagain.com
> > > > > > > Phone: (856)-327-4936
> > > > > > > Fax: (856)-327-2242
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > -----Original Message-----
> > > > > > > From: Vanagon Mailing List
> > > [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com]On
> > > > > Behalf
> > > > > > > Of Craig Oda - Personal email
> > > > > > > Sent: Monday, June 10, 2002 1:02 AM
> > > > > > > To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
> > > > > > > Subject: Cylinder head sticking to cylinder sleeve
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > I'm in the process of taking off my cylinder head and
> the
> > > > > sleeves are
> > > > > > > sticking to it. I've tried whacking the cylinder head
> with
> > > a
> > > > > wooden
> > > > > > > stick in an attempt to loosen it up. No go. I've been
> > > getting
> > > > > help
> > > > > > > from Dave who is having a similar adventure with his
> > > "Wolfy."
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Dave used a large screwdriver on the lip of the
> cylinder
> > > sleeve
> > > > > to
> > > > > > > break the sleeve free from the head. Is this a risky
> thing
> > > to
> > > > > try?
> > > > > > > Is there any danger with scratching or warping the
> cylinder
> > > > > sleeve?
> > > > > > > I notice there are two little studs at the top of the
> > > sleeves,
> > > > > near
> > > > > > > the center. I would love to just take a screwdriver and
> > > pry
> > > > > the
> > > > > > > sleeve from the head using those as the leverage point.
> I
> > > read
> > > > > that
> > > > > > > someone from Canada used a hockey stick to break the
> sleeve
> > > > > free.
> > > > > > > Unfortunately, I don't have one of these right now.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > I'm new to mechanics, but am forced to try this myself
> as I
> > > want
> > > > > to go
> > > > > > > camping this summer and the wife is balking at the cost
> of
> > > > > taking
> > > > > > > it to a mechanic.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > I'm really intimidated at having to put the sucker back
> > > > > together, but
> > > > > > > first I have to make sure that the cylinder sleeves
> don't
> > > come
> > > > > out.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > BTW, do I have to do both heads? I notice that the
> > > passenger
> > > > > side
> > > > > > > exhaust ports are discolored, especially on cylinder
> that
> > > is
> > > > > toward
> > > > > > > the front. I suspect that this is the only side that
> is
> > > leaking
> > > > > and
> > > > > > > causing my billowing white smoke problem.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Thanks for any help.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > -- Craig
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > --
> > > > > > > Craig Oda craigoda@communitybuilders.info
> > > > > > > VW Info: 1983 VW Westfalia, water-cooled, automatic
> > > > > >
> > > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> ________________________________________________________________
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> > >
> > >
> >
> > ________________________________________________________________
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>
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