Date: Thu, 20 Jun 2002 12:35:44 -0500
Reply-To: wilden1@JUNO.COM
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Stan Wilder <wilden1@JUNO.COM>
Subject: Re: Valve Adjustment during head installation?
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Lifter adjustment should be done on a cold engine.
Locate Top Dead Center on #1 cylinder by dropping a thin wire through the
#1 spark plug hole and rotating the engine until piston top squeezes the
thin wire between the piston top and the cylinder head (don’t force it)
the rotor arm should be pointing very close to the notch in your
distributor rim if you’re at TDC. If not you’re 180 degrees off. While
you're adjusting the valves inspect the valve stems for chips and the
adjusting screws for heavy pitting. Either of these signs can represent a
weak / bad lifter or a valve seat that is loose. (minor pitting of
adjusting screws OK most of the time.)
Adjust #1 valves at the following settings.
Option #1: One full turn down from the point that the rocker arm just
touches the valve stem.
Option #2: Using a feeler gauge set the clearance to .006 as the rocker
arm just touches the valve stem.
Both settings have worked for me and many others. Do Not Use the full two
turns as described in Hayes, Muir or Bentley Manuals.
#1. Remove the valve covers. Read the part number on your heads, make
sure that they are the same.
VW heads will have a VW Logo on them, AMC heads will not and they won't
have a part number. The one thing you need to establish is that are both
VW or both AMC. You can't mix the heads, they should be the same.
#2. Loosen the adjusting nuts about two full turns.
#3. Start the engine for about 1 minute. Be sure you've got some
cardboard under there to catch any oil that slings out. Most cases there
will be very little.
#4. Go to the back of the car and slip another piece of cardboard under
there so I don't lay in the oil that dripped.
#5. Bring #1 cylinder up to TDC, Remove #1 Plug, I use a flashlight and a
piece of flat steel that comes off windshield wiper blades to get TDC.
(others use a screwdriver or coat hanger wire) The steel will not rotate
when the piston is at TDC but it doesn't bind the piston. (depends on
your piston/head clearance)
#6. I rotate my distributor so the notch in the distributor rim is right
in line with the rotor arm.
#7. I adjust the first #1 intake and exhaust valves to one turn after the
rocker arm just touches the valve stem. Or use Bobs way of .006 with a
feeler gauge (you are eliminating pre load by using his method, nothing
wrong with it).
#8. Since I've got a manual transmission I put the gearbox in 2nd gear
and rock the car until the next cylinder comes up to TDC, I watch the
rotor arm and when it is 90 degrees past the notch and first position I
set the next valves. (leave the spark plugs in, only #1 needs to be
removed)
#9. While all this is going on the sealer that sticks my new valve cover
gaskets to the valve covers is setting.
#10. Just follow through on each cylinder until you've got them all set.
#11. Check the general condition of your valve stems (no chips) and your
adjusting screws (few tiny pits OK, but no chips or hard wear signs).
#12. Reinstall your valve covers.
#13. Crank your engine, pay attention to the oil light, if it doesn't
come on immediately stop cranking and then crank again.
#14. Your engine may be noisy for as long as 15 minutes, don't panic.
Just take a gentle trip around the block and it will normally settle in.
#15. I don't bleed the lifters, I've never to my knowledge had air locked
lifters. If the above procedure doesn't quieten your lifters then you
could possibly have the air locked problem. If you do you'll just have to
follow the procedures in the Bentley or get info from Boston Bob about
the bleeding procedure.
#16. I made a tool consisting of a wood dowel with a finish nail in the
end of it so I could bleed the lifters, pushing it down in the relief
valve releases pressure in the lifter but I envisioned it as introducing
air into the lifters and could never see that it did anything. It could
be an option if you decide to try it.
On Thu, 20 Jun 2002 10:09:13 -0700 Craig Oda - Personal email
<craigoda@COMMUNITYBUILDERS.INFO> writes:
> I can see the light at the end of the tunnel of my journey to change
> my head gaskets. However, I'm still walking in the dark now and
> seek
> the guidance of those that have made it to the light.
>
> Do I have to adjust my valves during a cylinder head installation?
> I
> did not remove the springs. However, I also did not put my
> pushrods
> back on the exact valve that I took them off from. I took
> off the rocker arms to access the head cap screws. I've pretty
> much
> got everything assembled. I just need to put oil and coolant into
> the
> beast and I should be able to start her up. I've never done any
> valve adjustment in my life and am trying to avoid work if I can.
> I
> kind of didn't understand the instructions about the TDC
> adjustments
> and I don't have a timing light, but can sure buy one if I need to.
>
> I want to go camping. I have this great fear that I'm going to put
> coolant and oil into the beast and nothing will happen when I turn
> the
> ignition. Any advice on the valves would be appreciated.
>
> -- Craig
>
>
> --
> Craig Oda craigoda@communitybuilders.info
> VW Info: 1983 VW Westfalia, water-cooled, automatic
>
| 
