Date: Mon, 1 Jul 2002 11:22:45 -0400
Reply-To: Ben huot <huotx@VIDEOTRON.CA>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Ben huot <huotx@VIDEOTRON.CA>
Subject: Re: How is coolant getting to exhaust???
>>there is no coolant in the head itself right?<<
Well sorry to say but yes there is Craig! Just over the exhaust port you
have a hose, this is coolant!!! You should know that as you did the head,
each head as an inlet one side and an outlet the opposite side. Check my
drawing at http://pages.infinit.net/engine/cooling_system_flow.htm , it is
for the 2.1L but the 1.9 as the same head hole for the coolant, they simply
goes to a different location.
The head is full of coolant, this is why it's a water-cooled. The head by
itself generate more heat than the cylinder portion of the engine. The
triangular 2-holes shapes between the 2 cylinders on the mating surface of
the head are inlet hole for the coolant (close to the 2 inside stud
bolt)!!!!
Do you have any coolant under the valve cover? (You can start the engine
without the valve cover and see if coolant is going in and out, there is
only minimum oil lost)
What is the torque use for the main head bolt?
(Torque should be 50nm (37 ft lb) for the 2.1L, this was the revised torque
in 86 but the Bentley doesn't mention anything else lower for the 1.9L)
If you don't see any external crack they could be one internal between the
exhaust port and the coolant circulation chamber. This could have happen
when you remove the head the first time, the crack was almost ready to
open and by the time you de-torque / unscrew (sorry for my English) you
enlarge the crack. There is also coolant in the bolt section of the head in
a westy, that is why we have to "coat" the stud bolt.
If you look at the second picture on my site :
http://pages.infinit.net/engine/head.htm
You will see that the stud are always soaking in coolant in the cylinder
portion of the engine.
My suggestions are the following:
Re-torque if needed, if it doesn't work. Remove head and have the head
check by a very qualified head rebuilt guys / company equip to do an air
leak suction test. (sorry again for my English, it would now be important
that I use the right words!!!)
Another way of doing a self-test: Find a friend with a compressor, make
some kind of adaptor with a small hose that will fit into the 8 stud hole,
force air into those hole by blocking the other side of the hole. If you
have a crack big enough to cause your trouble you should hear a "hissss"
sound. I know, this sound a bit difficult but it is feasible. But remember
that you could not hear anything when the head is cold as aluminium expend
when hot!!!!!!!!!! Well this was just a suggestion as I think you are in
need of some!
If the leak is internal, there is nothing to be done! This can have been
cause when you played /displace the head.
If you decide to buy another head, BUY THE SAME BRAND, PERIOD... or change
both
Well I fell sorry for all your trouble and I sincerely hope that you will
find an easy solution.
You don't have much too loose by slightly over-torque (ing!!! Damn my
English) the studs!!!
Well, good luck Craig, Ben
