Date: Fri, 12 Jul 2002 02:01:07 EDT
Reply-To: Richiesbad@AOL.COM
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Richie Chunda <Richiesbad@AOL.COM>
Subject: Re: No Subject
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In a message dated 7/11/02 11:40:21 PM, jcessence@HOTMAIL.COM writes:
<< I am trying to remove the rotors on my 87 syncro... ... Does anyone have
any ideas? >>
John,
I have been through the misery which is now staring you in the face more than
once. First, I will tell you what I found to be the source of the problem:
there is far too little clearance between the OD of the hub flange and the ID
of rotor. I would guess this gap is about .030". Whenever the ID of the
rotor rusts, the exfoliating iron oxide fills this scant space solid and the
rusty rotor becomes one with the universe and, unfortunately, also the hub.
The first time I was confronted with this problem, I saturated the rotor with
penetrating oil, applied some heat and went at it with a 2 lb. copper hammer.
After some abuse, it came off. At the time, I did not realize that I was,
in some small way, lucky. More about that later. I saw what the problem was
and as I mounted the shiny new Brembo's I thought for sure by painting the
mating surfaces with anti-seize that I would not get stung again.
When it came time to renew the front wheel bearings, the anti-seize slathered
Brembo rotors would not even budge. In the end, I removed the rotors with
the hubs still attached. The rusting was much worse than before. I descaled
the rotor/hub joint as much as possible with every kind of pointed tool
imaginable, then I soaked the assembly with penetrant and tried to press them
apart on my small press. At the point that it appeared something might go
bong and drop my sorry ass into a carefully dug hole in the ground, I decided
to try a different approach. I placed a piece of plywood on the floor with
the rotor/hub (inboard side down) on it supported by a few blocks of
hardwood. I then heated the collar of the rotor with a rosebud tip in an
oxyacetylene torch. I wanted to heat the rotor as quickly as possible so
that little heat would soak into the hub. As soon as I thought it was hot
enough, I held a 6" length of 2" AL round on the center of the hub and gave
it one hell-of-a smack with a heavy hammer. It finally popped out. In
hindsight, I should have wasted away the rotors on the lathe; it would have
been quicker.
Before, I mentioned that I was lucky the first time. I was lucky because the
original rotors were OE and they rusted far less than the Brembo's. When I
unpacked the Brembo's, I was duly impressed with the machine work on them.
What I could not see was the metallurgy in them. As pretty as they were, I
have never seen rotors rust to that extent. So, if you have aftermarket
rotors, you might have to cut them off. Keep in mind, that the edge of the
hub flange is almost hard against the ID of the rotor.
I have heard some guys talk about beating on the rotors until they break
apart. Given a big enough hammer, I guess anything is possible, but it will
also ruin your wheel bearings while you are pounding away at it.
Although Syncro OE wheel bearing last a long, long time, if you think yours
will need renewed soon, now might be soon enough.
Richie
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