Date: Wed, 17 Jul 2002 20:41:46 -0500
Reply-To: Larry Alofs <lalofs@ENTERACT.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Larry Alofs <lalofs@ENTERACT.COM>
Subject: Re: need A/C tips. 87 gl
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Ed DeBolt wrote:
>
> Hi Vgoners
>
> well the mercury hit 108 here in Reno yesterday. Thats a record with no
> higher temp recorded since 1886.
>
> My 87 has blown cool air a few years ago when I bought it but has never been
> recharged and it is not converted. I took the belt off over a year ago.
>
> So this is my plan.
>
> Put a new belt on
> get the system evacuated of R-12
> replace the dryer
> use the 134 conversion kit from BD
>
> Just wondering if anyone has any tips for me. Is changing the dryer
> difficult? Should I change any other O rings etc at the same time? When the
> system is evacuated is it safe i.e free of toxic freon for me to work on?
>
> Is it possible or helpful to have the system pressure checked? would such a
> test indicate compressor issues?
>
> I'm hoping my compressor is okay. I read in the archives that not having a
> belt on it is bad because the seals are lubricated by the belt/pump action.
>
> Thanks for any tips.
>
> Ed
> Reno, NV
> 87 GL
Hi
I converted my 91 to 134a about a year ago. I had the belt off for
about a year and it didn't seem to hurt it.
If yours leaked enough to stop working a year ago, there is probably
not enough r-12 left to worry about.
You want new O-rings at the dryer and the compressor. It's best to
dismount the compressor anyway to drain out as much of the mineral oil
as possible. I assume that you're putting in some ester oil. Try not
to let too much humid air get into the system when it is open. Use a
real gauge set. Pull a good vacuum and then close the valves and watch
the gauge for an hour or so to see if there is any significant leak that
must be fixed.
Then let the vacuum pump work for at least an hour to remove air and
moisture. When charging, it helps to set the cans in warm water. When
the high side pressure gets to a reasonable level ( a little over 200
psi if I recall) the high pressure switch will start to cycle the
radiator fan to high speed as needed. This seems to be a reasonable
charge level.
The coldest air temp I have measured at the exit from the evaporator
is about 48 F with the air in the cabin already cool. Generally the air
coming out is about 30 F less than what goes in, with the temp control
all the way up and the fan at 2.
Mine still leaks a little; this summer I had to add about a can and a
half to get it back to the performance I had last summer. I'm not sure,
but this may be because those long hoses are not the "barrier type"
recommended for R-134a.
I have a Saab 900 that needs converting also. I'm about to try one of
the hydrocarbon refrigerants this time.
good luck,
Larry A.
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