Date: Sat, 20 Jul 2002 22:27:53 -0800
Reply-To: Scott and Norma <scottandnormadesanti@GCI.NET>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Scott and Norma <scottandnormadesanti@GCI.NET>
Subject: Re: Wobbly Still Won't Go... Gurus pleassssse heeellllllppppp...
In-Reply-To: <3D39CBC5.EFD28A68@earthlink.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="Windows-1252"
Mark, David, Robert, and Volks,
What Mark has described below is EXACTLY what I did this afternoon.
The symptoms are identical.. the only difference is the T2B identifier.
I, too, will now have to troubleshoot the wiring from D15 back to the
black connection box. I made a small jumper with alligator clip and
spade connector and used the voltage from the stud inside the black
conn. box to feed the T2B connector. The Wobbly Bus is home...up
on ramps... ready for tomorrows next triumph.
Professor David, my hat is off to you... the test bulb worked
perfectly. Well, time for a brew... chapter 2 tomorrow.
Thanks All.
Scott De Santi
Anchorage, Alaska
86 Vanagon 2WD (Wobbly Bus)
98 New Beetle 2.0 (2Gruvy)
-----Original Message-----
From: mark drillock [mailto:drillock@earthlink.net]
Sent: Saturday, July 20, 2002 12:45 PM
To: David Beierl
Cc: Scott and Norma
Subject: Re: Wobbly Still Won't Go... Gurus pleassssse
heeellllllppppp...
Well, small world as they say. A couple of hours ago a friend with a
1990 Syncro called me with seemingly identical symptoms. Syncro won't
start.
His relays are not clicking and he is missing 12 volts at the ignition
coil.
A new ignition switch did not help.
We traced 12 volts from the key switch and then it goes to the relay
panel (pin A8) no problem. It leaves the relay panel (pin D15) but then
never gets to the ignition coil.
There is only one wire (black) involved, from relay panel (D15) to the
coil by way of a wire connector (T1g) in the wiring box of the engine
compartment. The 12 volts never arrives at this connector and thus never
gets to the coil or relay control leads.
As a bypass test I had him run a wire with a male spade end from unused
relay socket 2 (pin 4) to a female spade end plugged onto the ignition
coil unused 1 of 3 on the terminal 15 side.
The Syncro starts and runs now as long as the bypass is connected.
He is now going to try and trace the wire to find the fault using the
pin through the insulation trick. Failing that he will run a permanent
replacement wire for the dead one.
NOTE: On the 1986 wiring diagram the connector in the engine wiring box
is labeled (T2b) -NOT- (T1g) as on the 1990 wiring diagram.
Mark
David Beierl wrote:
>
> At 03:05 AM 7/20/2002, Scott and Norma wrote:
> >David,
> >
> > I honestly can't fathom this. If I disconnect the 12v line
> >to the coil it's there... if connected it's 0v. I haven't made
> >a load light yet...tomorrow. This is daunting... and coupled
> >with other crap going on...it's just not making any sense.
> >
> >Scott
>
> Hi Scott -- it makes perfectly good sense -- you have a high-resistance
> connection somewhere btw the switch and the coil. The voltmeter doesn't
> put enough load on the circuit to drag it down, that's why you need the
> test light (use at least a running-light bulb, preferably a stop-light
bulb
> -- you're trying to put a noticeable load on the circuit).
>
> If it helps any, think of it as plumbing -- if you put a disk with a tiny
> pinhole (high resistance) in a water pipe, and then measured the pressure
> with a gauge, you'd get the same pressure out as you were putting in. But
> now if you connect a sprinkler to the end of the pipe, the pressure on
that
> side of the disk will drop to practically nothing, because the pressure on
> the input side can't force water through the pinhole fast enough. Cap the
> pipe again and up goes the pressure. What you'll be doing with the test
> light is following along the pipe, looking for that disk with the little
> hole in it. When the light doesn't light, you know that you're past the
> point where the trouble is.
>
> On the light, I suggest one long lead with a good solid clip on it, and
one
> short one that you can clip to a needle. Needles are good for poking into
> insulation because they leave a very small hole that seals right up. OTOH
> since you're going to put an amp or two load on, a pin is probably better.
>
> cheer up, you'll get there,
> david
>
> --
> David Beierl - dbeierl@attglobal.net
