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Date:         Wed, 21 Aug 2002 22:44:40 -0500
Reply-To:     tmarciniak@WI.RR.COM
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Tim Marciniak <tmarciniak@WI.RR.COM>
Subject:      Re: Need advice on replacing accelerator pedal (accelerator cable
              auto transmission)
Comments: To: Birkenfeld Jeff <BirkenfeldJeff@JOHNDEERE.COM>
In-Reply-To:  <441AE7AA2087D411B8FF00508BA0F8A8A41042@e90dpsg2.dx.deere.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" ; format="flowed"

Jeff,

Thanks for the great detail. Were you able to push or pry the coolant lines to the side for access to the cable connection? As you say it looks really tight near the auto tranny. Or was just dropping the tranny the two inches enough to give you access?

Tim

>Jeff now writes: >Automatic transmission accelerator cable rusting under van seems to be a >growing problem. >I have an update for part of this problem. When replacing my accelerator >cable due to rust in the cable near the transmission area (black plastic >transition piece from hard plastic to the acc cable tubing that bolts to >frame), I place a 12" piece of rubber line (fuel line whatever) over the >accelerator cable tubing so that it fits snug on the plastic transition >piece and over the accelerator cable tubing. This effect houses the >transition joint so that it is much less affected by water spray. I place a >small amount of RTV on each end of this new rubber line to aid in sealing >even further. This method is akin to sheathing the joint with a rubber >hose. > >The replacement accelerator cable (auto transmission) feeds from rear of >vehicle just above front of transmission. Remove old cable at transmission >linkage, unbolt plastic transition piece from frame rail, remove cable under >fuel pedal and pull it our from underneath van at rear. Installation-Begin >at transmission, feed through plastic tubed housing (IIRC), feed cable along >frame rail and into the tube that runs above and middle of fuel tank, drop >spare carrier and remove spare tire, push to the side the black plastic box >that covers the bottom of fuel pedal (underneath van-spare removed-look up >under driver foot), feed new cable into the same area and attach to pedal >linkage (attach the new cable end in the middle of the adjustment area-it >will be obvious and tighten slightly) go back and attach the plastic >transition piece to frame rail, go back and attach cable end firmly to >transmission linkage. The transmission linkage then controls the throttle >body giving you acceleration. Once completed, adjustment may be necessary >to give proper shift points, I always begin at the front of vehicle under >the pedal and take up slack if trans upshifts too early, then fine >tune/adjust at the rear of vehicle on the throttle body linkage. Take up >slack if trans upshifts too early (low RPM), increase slack if trans >upshifts too late (high RPM). Once all is adjusted to your liking, reattach >the black plastic box under fuel pedal. Make sure you replace that rubber >boot on the transmission end of the linkage, the new cable should come with >one. > >I hope this makes sense, if you have any questions, please let me know. >I've updated several automatic van accelerator cables in the last 3 years >with the rubber hose sheathing and no failures yet. Doesn't have to be a >new cable to perform this either but you do have to remove the pedal end of >cable to slip the rubber hose over the cable to sheath the transition joint. >Access is very limited at the transmission area but cable replacement can be >done without removing anything else. I usually end up unbolting >transmission mount from frame and lowering tranny about 2 inches (beware >this could pull something loose). >Tim, p-mail for more info. > >Good luck! > >JB >'89 Wolfsburgs > >Tim Marciniak wrote: >> >> I searched the archives and find lots of posts on corroded and broken >> accelerator cables but nothing that really described replacing this >> cable. Just wondering how difficult it is. Near the auto >> transmission my cable is rusty and corroded because the boot that >> covers it has pulled away from its attachment point. When I press >> the accelerator pedal to the floor--it sticks--and then a few moments >> later it releases. I have dried to spray WD40 onto the cable and >> this has only been marginally effective. There are also a couple of >> coolant hoses in the way that prevent me from actually touching this > > cable. Bentley has pictures but gives no direction as to how to >> replace it only talks about adjustment. Just wondering if any one >> has done the R/R of this cable? Wondering if threading a new cable >> back through is difficult? Do you thread from back or front? Do I >> need to replace the plastic sheathing? Is adjustment difficult? >> >> TIA >> >> Tim >> 90 Multivan Automatic >> -- > >Larry then wrote: >When the accelerator sticks on my '91 automatic, the problem seems to be >at the pivot on the transmission. If I recall the cable from the front >actually pulls on a lever which give the trans throttle information. >The lubrication sometimes deteriorates where these parts are mounted and >the shaft enters the trans. To lube it properly may take some >disassembly, but I have gotten some improvement by dousing it with >Tri-Flow. I'd check this first, before pulling the cable. > >Larry A.

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