Date: Fri, 23 Aug 2002 11:15:25 -0400
Reply-To: Jay L Snyder <Jay.L.Snyder@USA.DUPONT.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Jay L Snyder <Jay.L.Snyder@USA.DUPONT.COM>
Subject: Re: Vacuum Brake Booster
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
If you have a 4-speed, low fluid level will cause the clutch to fail before
the brakes. It is a shared resevoir, with the take-off point being higher
for the clutch hydraulics.
Jay
Helen Fahy <72510.1173@COMPUSERVE.COM>@gerry.vanagon.com> on 08/23/2002
11:10:46 AM
Please respond to 72510.1173@COMPUSERVE.COM
Sent by: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
cc:
Subject: Re: Vacuum Brake Booster
I picked up my Bentley and went back through the electrical diagrams for
other Vanagons and found that the air cooled, diesel as well as the '83 &
'84 water cooled digijet models did use the three terminal brake pressure
sensor to activate the brake warning light. This warning functionality,
internal master cylinder seal failure, was dropped starting with the '85
Digijet models.
The models listed above with the three terminal brake sensors also had the
parking brake actuate the brake warning light. From '85, the two terminal
brake pressure sensors, the internal master cylinder seal failure mode was
dropped in favor of a brake fluid level sensor.
As my master cylinder did have an internal failure, I would prefer to add
this functionality back into my Westy. Has anyone done this? Is brake
fluid loss a more common failure mode than the internal seal failure of the
master cylinder?
Thanks,
Helen & Joe Fahy
'87 Westy
----- Original Message -----
From: "Timothy Hannink" <tjhannink@YAHOO.COM>
To: <vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM>
Sent: Friday, August 23, 2002 9:30 AM
Subject: Re: Vacuum Brake Booster
>
> If brake fluid has been leaking into the booster, I
> would replace it. If not, it should work for a while
> longer. The brake booster in a Vanagon lives a fairly
> sheltered life compared to most vehicles since it's
> located inside the van instead of being in the engine
> compartment.
>
> You will need to remove the entire dashboard to remove
> the booster, you only need to remove the instrument
> panel to R&R the MC. If the booster does require
> replacement later, it can be R&Red without
> disconnecting the hydraulic lines from the MC, so that
> simplifies the procedure.
>
> I would buy a new German MC and not mess with
> rebuilding my old one.
>
> Good luck,
>
>
>
> =====
> Tim Hannink
> Goldibox - 1987 Vanagon Camper, Wolfsburg Edition
> Winter Park, Florida
> http://home.earthlink.net/~tjhannink/
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/wolfsburg_campers
> http://photos.yahoo.com/tjhannink [Vanagon] Album
>
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