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Date:         Sat, 31 Aug 2002 11:58:50 +0100
Reply-To:     Anthony Polson <acpolson@HOTMAIL.COM>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Anthony Polson <acpolson@HOTMAIL.COM>
Subject:      Re: Projektzwo foglight spares.....what if you break your $300
              foglites?
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed

Hi Kenneth,

Thanks for your reply, and thank you for posting it to the list.

I can understand why you might not wish to drill or cut your Vanagon's body panels. If you lack the necessary skills for body work, rust treatment and finishing, any drilling or cutting will only increase the risk of rust taking hold.

Rust is a big problem with Vanagons, unless they spend their lives in a warm, dry climate. The factory rustproofing is elementary at best, and consists of penny-pinching amounts of wax deposited in only some of the box members that make up the Vanagon's structure.

My '84 Reimo conversion (based on a 1.9 WBX Transporter panel van) had its fair share of rust for a Vanagon living in the UK, especially one living in an area such as mine (the North Sea coast of Yorkshire) that has a cool temperate maritime climate, with constantly changing weather in the sping, summer and fall and copious amounts of salt on the roads in winter.

However, I have by now thoroughly and systematically opened up, treated and rustproofed over 60% of my Vanagon's bodywork and expect to complete the job later this year. I regard every new drilled or cut hole not as a threat, but as a *golden opportunity* to inspect and treat rust and to make sure that it never recurs in that area. I am using hand and power tools to remove rust, Kurust (phosphoric acid) to convert what little remains, and either zinc rich primer and micaceous iron oxide paint, or the same primer and 2-pack epoxy finish, or Waxoyl rustproofing fluid in unseen areas such as enclosed box sections.

Areas which cause particular problems include the body seams, where rust attacks from the inside outwards. Seam rust CANNOT be treated only from the outside. You need to tackle *both* sides, otherwise it will simply recur, again and again.

From the factory, the Vanagon body got an electrophoretic dip primer over the whole bodyshell, but the finishing paint was applied by hand. If you closely inspect the body seams from inside, you will notice that little or no finish was applied to the vulnerable seam edges, especially around the main side panels, the rear wheel arches and the top of the sills. The electrophoretic primer alone is not able to withstand 18 years in an aggressive climate. Heck, these vans were never even designed to last that long!

Other areas needing attention include the enclosed sills. Access can be gained via removable rubber plugs at the bottom of the bodysides, accessible from the inside after trim has been removed. I have inspected mine with an illuminated fibre optic viewer, treated the small amount of rust with Kurust and spray injected wax to cover the whole interior of the box section. I will inspect them again after two years and re-treat if required.

The Vanagon has a semi-monocoque structure with a strong floorpan (not a separate chassis) that is stiffened by box sections such as the sills, the "chassis rails", the frame members that support the body panels and the air ducts at the rear. All of these members are just as critical to the overall strength and integrity of the structure as each other. They got only a light spray of wax at the factory which appears (in the Vanagons I have inspected) not to cover much more than half of the area needing such treatment. Provided that rust has not taken hold, a careful and thorough application of Waxoyl does the trick here.

I have learnt from long experience (pre-Vanagon) that even the brightest of bare metal produced after removing old rust and paint needs treating with Kurust. After you use a power wire brush or other tool to obtain bright bare metal, it takes only about 30 seconds for surface rust to begin forming - unless you live in SoCal, of course!

For the rest of us mere mortals, it is absolutely essential to convert this rust before applying primer and finish, otherwise rusting will start unseen. Rust travels rapidy. The rust occupies several times the volume of the unrusted metal and exerts enormous force as it expands. So it can easily open up seams, allowing further air moisture to penetrate, thereby accelerating and propagating rust at surprising speed. So I treat ALL bare areas with Kurust before applying primer and finish, or Waxoyl. No exceptions!

I hope that you can now understand why I don't fear drilling or cutting my Vanagon's body panels, especially in areas where they open up more opportunities to deal with rust and prevent further corrosion.

*****

To those list members who sent me (by private email) abusive responses to my previous posting to the list on this subject, I am sorry that you have not yet matured beyond the stage of young girls defending their choice of Barbie accessories. Grow up, guys. And have the courage to make your views known on the list, so we can all have a long and hearty laugh at your expense!

Regards,

Tony

(1984 Vanagon Reimo)

>---------- Original Message -------------------- > >Date: Fri, 30 Aug 2002 09:18:33 -0400 >From: Kenneth Wilford <kenwilfy@COMCAST.NET> >Subject: Re: Projektzwo foglight spares.....what if you break your $300 > foglites? > >This has the downside of this idea is actually having to cut and drill >holes >in the body of your Vanagon. If you have an old clunker, then go for it. >I >am trying to extend the life of my van and cobbling together some crappy >looking, hacked up foglights isn't my idea of something good for my van. > >The pzwo lights require no cutting, no drilling and I have had mine >installed for about three years now with no rock chips. If you are that >concerned about protecting your investment, I would get some 3m clear rock >guard which you can buy in a sheet and putting this on the lenses. Most >rock hits would be absorbed by this material and save the glass. However >if >you run around ramming into boulders then nothing short a lens fashioned >from a large diamond is going to help you (have a great Friday!) > > > >-----Original Message----- >From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com]On Behalf >Of Anthony Polson >Sent: Thursday, August 29, 2002 5:38 PM >To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM >Subject: Re: Projektzwo foglight spares.....what if you break your $300 >foglites? > > >I think it's about time y'all decided on "ProjektNEIN"! > >Instead, buy a South African lower grill, which is full width, cut two >rectangular holes and fit the rectangular foglights of your choice. No >spares hassles. > >Regards, > >Tony > >(1984 Vanagon, Reimo Alaska conversion)

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