Date: Thu, 29 Aug 2002 15:10:34 -0700
Reply-To: Timothy Hannink <tjhannink@YAHOO.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Timothy Hannink <tjhannink@YAHOO.COM>
Subject: Re: fuel tank crossover...
In-Reply-To: <p0510032db9942b6d91f9@[192.168.1.102]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
I had posted the following in the Wolfsburg Camper
group in the file section and thought I had posted to
the list also.
If you are getting a fuel smell after filling up your
Vanagons fuel tank, or if you want to drop the fuel
tank, you might want to read the following:
If the crossover tube is just cracked, it can be
replaced without dropping the fuel tank. The beginning
steps are the same for either task, if you find the
crossover tube was the problem you can just replace it
(around $27.00 from VW).
I jacked the front of the van up as far as my 3 ton
jack will lift it (about a foot) and put jackstands
under the front jackpoints.
Then I removed both front tires/wheels.
Disconnect the 5mm fuel lines that connect the
cross-over tube to the vapor recovery tanks in the
wheelwell. (they should be on the front nipples on
both sides). Find a good pair of diagonal cutters to
remove the crimped on clamps, avoid twisting them or
you could break the nipples off the tank.
Reach around the front of the upper control arms and
feel the area around where the crossover tube enters
the tank. Use a small brush to clean any loose dirt
from around the opening, if necessary. Pull up on the
crossover tube fittings where they go into the tank.
The grommets will probably come out with them.
If you have some non-grit hand cleaner (GoJo white),
put it on your forearms to keep them from getting
scratched up. I use the same stuff to clean all the
parts since it doesn't require water to clean. I also
use it to lubricate all of the grommets and rubber
hoses.
There is a one-hole strap that holds the cross-over
tube to the body above the tank. I used a long flat
blade screwdriver to bend that down and slip the tube
out under it.
Tie a string to the right side hose that was connected
to the vapor recovery tank and pull the cross-over
tube out of the drivers side wheelwell.
If you find that the cross-over tube is cracked,
usually at the junction right above where it enters
the tank, you can replace it now.
Clean and re-install the grommets. Use the string to
pull the new crossover tube in place. Reconnect the
vent lines to the vapor recovery tanks.
If you decide you still need to drop the tank, remove
the other set of 5mm lines to the vapor recovery tank
and the fill/vent line from the right side.
I used a syphon hose to remove any excess fuel from
the tank through the fill hole. Then I removed the
fuel line between the tank and the fuel pump, and used
a pan to catch the small amount of fuel that comes out
of the tank and pump. Jump over to the left side of
the van to remove the return line at the bottom rear
of the tank.
I used my 3 ton floor jack with a 12" x 12" x 3/4"
piece of plywood centered on the circular protrusion
on the bottom of the tank and raised the jack until it
was snug.
Then you can loosen the tank straps and begin lowering
the tank slowly. I had to bend the rear of the straps
slightly to get them out of the holes in the frame.
The back of the tank needs to come down first so you
can clear the lip on the frame with the front flange
on the tank.
Once I got the tank out, I tilted it up so the fill
hole is near the bottom and syphoned the remaining
fuel out of the tank.
Then its just a matter of removing and replacing the
vent lines and re-installing the grommets using plenty
of lubricant.
Its easiest to hang the crossover tube from the
chassis by the 1-hole strap without the tank in place.
Use the string to route it around the various hoses
and cables properly. Once you reposition the tank and
raise it up, everything can be plugged back in.
If you chose to remove the fuel sender, you might want
to pick up an o-ring for that fitting. Make sure that
you clean all of the dirt from around the sender
opening before you open it, it opens by twisting it
counter-clockwise about 1/16 of a turn. I was able to
save my o-ring by cleaning it in the GoJo hand
cleaner.
You don't need to remove the vapor recovery tanks in
the wheelwells but it does make it easier to cut off
the crimped on hose clamps. There are some valves on
top of those tanks that are plumbed back to the
charcoal canister in the right rear wheelwell with a
plastic type hose. Mine were in good shape except for
the grommets that fit in the top of the tank. They are
available at VW (P/N N90105501) for around $7.62 each.
Ken at Van-again has a kit for replacing the vent
lines, cross-over tubes and grommets (doesn't include
the vapor tank grommets) on his website
(www.vanagain.com) for around $70.00.
I reused all of the grommets since they were in good
shape. I also use shrink tubing on the ends of all of
the fuel lines to keep the braided cover from fraying.
I got the 5mm fuel line from my local VW parts store
for around $1.25/ft, they also had the 1' piece of
large fuel line that runs between the tank and the
pump. You will also need a 6" piece of 7mm fuel line
for the return side.
I use nylon cable ties instead of hose clamps on all
of the tank connections. None of these connections is
under pressure, so I feel safe in doing this.
Good luck,
Tim
--- John Gladu <jgladu@BCM.TMC.EDU> wrote:
> I've been searching the archives for a "how-to" on
> replacing the
> crossover tube on the top of the gas tank. A
> message from '97
> basically says 'just do it'. I understand the
> process - what I can't
> understand is how anyone with arms thicker than a
> spider-monkey's can
> get at these things.
>
> I have the car up on stands.
> The front wheels have been removed.
> I've taken the straps off the bottom of the gas tank
> and it is being
> held up with a padded floor jack.
> I cannot physically reach the places where the
> crossover tube inserts
> through the grommets into the top of the tank.
> Not from the front - when my bicep hits the
> rack-and-pinion, my hand
> still isn't close to the crossover.
> Not from the left - can't fit my arm through there
> anywhere.
> Not from the right - can't reach the left side, but
> I might be able
> to reach the right side.
> Not from the back - arm's not long enough.
> Bottom and top aren't options.
>
> Yes, I can remove the tank completely, but I don't
> know how I'm going
> to get that crossover reinstalled. Not on the left
> and not on the
> little clip screwed to the bottom of the floor.
>
> The yellowed plastic fitting on the left side that's
> supposed to look
> like a "Y" is broken. Don't know if it was broken
> before I started
> lowering the tank or not - couldn't get an angle on
> it to see before
> lowering.
>
> I don't want to go to all this effort just to break
> the replacement
> that I'm undoubtedly going to have to order.
>
> Does anyone have a copy of Bentley where the photos
> showing which
> vent tubes are to be removed is worth anything?
> Mine is so dark that
> there are basically three numbers on a mostly-black
> square.
>
> Suggestions?
> --
>
> bcnu - Grungy (Houston, TX)
> '60 dddPanel '69 Bug '90 Vanagon '93 Eurovan '00
> Audi A6 Avant
> grungy@mindless.com opinions are just
that.obviously.
=====
Tim Hannink
Goldibox - 1987 Vanagon Camper, Wolfsburg Edition
Winter Park, Florida
http://home.earthlink.net/~tjhannink/
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/wolfsburg_campers
http://photos.yahoo.com/tjhannink [Vanagon] Album
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