Date: Wed, 4 Sep 2002 22:17:34 -0400
Reply-To: Bradley Flubacher <flub@ADELPHIA.NET>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Bradley Flubacher <flub@ADELPHIA.NET>
Subject: Re: installing i-shaft bearings
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed
Bob,
Thanks for your pointers. I like the idea in using the shaft to install
the #1 side bearing. You're certainly right, that one's the easiest.
I decided to remove the problem bearing to take a close look at it. I
did this on the hunch that I didn't drive it in straight enough. Sure
enough, I found that it was mis-shaped a bit. I've ordered up another
set. Unfortunately, I've been having to order them in sets of two. Can
you point me at a supplier where I can buy a single? I'm using
Dura-Bond bearings. I don't suppose you know of other manufacturers and
their part numbers for this application?
Thanks again,
Bradley Flubacher
State College, PA
Robert Donalds wrote:
> Fellow vanagon types
> I have installed many set of these bearings into rebuilt 1.8 blocks
> for use in ice rinks to power Zambonis popane fueled to boot
> on a good day I can get each bearing in straight and the I shaft turns
> freely on my first set of bearings. The trick is to drive them
> in staight. the rear #4 is the harder of the two to drive straight
> and I can only say it requires some practice and a set or 2
> of bearings. The rear plug is best installed threw the freese plug
> hole and the rear bearings can be purchased seperatly. the front
> bearing is so easy to install because I use the I shaft as the install
> tool. first place the bearing on the shaft and install the shaft in
> the block. the I shaft is already started in the rear bearing when you
> bring the front bearing to rest against the block. align the oiling
> with the hole in the block and tap on the bolt you have installed in
> the end of the I shaft the one that holds the gear. take care not to
> brake the thrust flange off the I shaft comes in contact with the block
> For an in van repair check the rear bearing for side play before you
> remove it as it often does not wear like the front bearing.
> I have a three corner deburing tool from sears that can be used to
> trim the bearing and remove the high spots. To find the high spots
> just turn the shaft and they shine if you can't install the shaft
> start over with new bearings
> hope this helps
> going faster miles an hour I remain
> Bob Donalds
> http://www.bostonengine.com
> all rights reserved
>
>
> Hello everyone,
> After much care, I've just finished installing a new set of
> intermediate shaft bearings in my 1.6L NA block. I test fit the shaft
> only to find that the bearing nearest to the oil pump is way too
> tight. So tight in fact that I had to weasle the drive gear through
> it. Once I got it past the drive gear, the bearing was of course too
> small for the shaft journal.
>
>
> I installed this bearing from the cylinder #4 side of the block. I
> removed the little "freeze plug" and used a bearing installation tool.
> I'm wondering it should have been installed from the other side, and
> maybe I screwed up the bearing by installing it from the wrong side?
> I don't think this should be the case, however.
>
>
> I bought the bearing set from my local foreign car parts store. It
> came from Beck-Arnley (014-6350). Inside the Beck-Arnley box is a
> Dura-Bond Bearings box "Cam Bearing Set No. VWG-1 Interchanges with
> 1726M SH1209S 2C1209S"
>
>
> Can anyone offer advice? I've used some dykem blue to find where it's
> binding. I see a constant ring right where the journal begins it's
> taper. It seems like I'll have to fit this bearing quite a bit...
>
>
> I'm inclined to go and buy a brake cylinder hone and remove some
> material...
>
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