Date: Wed, 11 Sep 2002 14:37:18 -0700
Reply-To: Randy Bergum <organslave@EARTHLINK.NET>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Randy Bergum <organslave@EARTHLINK.NET>
Subject: Re: Club Hammers
Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Saaaaaaayyyyyy............... Wasn't Club Hammers the place where Mr. Bean
hung out? Oh, no..... that would be Club Phut.
Never mind.
Randy Bergum
Awash in trivia
1990 Carat
> [Original Message]
> From: Clive Smith <clive.harman-smith@NTLWORLD.COM>
> To: <vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM>
> Date: 9/10/2002 4:23:13 PM
> Subject: Club Hammers
>
> Any toolshop, about £4-00 if made in China, about £10 if Made in Britain!
> They vary from 1.5 to 2.5 lbs, but traditonally are 2lb and have a handle
> less than a foot long.
> Perhaps they're called blockhead hammers or something equally descriptive
> over there.
>
> .... club, thump, lump hammer - for clubbing things with quite hard
without
> requiring a backswing.
> .. irrestible force meets an immoveable object - what gives?
> Clive
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Ben McCafferty" <ben@kbmc.net>
> To: "Clive Smith" <clive.harman-smith@NTLWORLD.COM>
> Sent: Wednesday, September 11, 2002 12:05 AM
> Subject: Re: Sure. . . Summary: Re: How hard is it to remove exhaust?
>
>
> > Where does one find such a beast? I've often wished for just such a
> thing.
> > bmc :)
> > "Faith will move mountains, but you'd better bring a shovel...."
> >
> >
> > > From: Clive Smith <clive.harman-smith@NTLWORLD.COM>
> > > Reply-To: Clive Smith <clive.harman-smith@NTLWORLD.COM>
> > > Date: Tue, 10 Sep 2002 22:06:49 +0100
> > > To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
> > > Subject: Re: Sure. . . Summary: Re: How hard is it to remove
exhaust?
> > >
> > > ---- Original Message -----
> > > From: "George Goff" <THX0001@AOL.COM>
> > > To: <vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM>
> > > Sent: Tuesday, September 10, 2002 5:29 AM
> > > Subject: Re: Sure. . . Summary: Re: How hard is it to remove exhaust?
> > >
> > >
> > >> In a message dated 9/9/02 11:33:39 PM, claudiocella@SHAW.CA writes:
> > >>
> > >> << In regards to using a hammer and a chisel - the hammer and
chisel
> > > method
> > >>
> > >> would be used parallel with the stud (at least as close as possible
to
> > > this
> > >>
> > >> position given the amount of room), therefore hitting the nut on it's
> top
> > >>
> > >> surface with the cylinder head acting as a support. >>
> > >>
> > >> Given enough room? Dear God, I would like to meet the man who can
> > > accelerate
> > >> a hammer, any hammer, enough to cut that nut in the short distance
> which
> > > is
> > >> available.
> > >>
> > >> George
> > >
> > > Thats is why a club hammer (as Brits call them, not a sledge which is
a
> long
> > > handled thing carrying from 8 to 16 lb head) is an indispensible part
of
> a
> > > mechanics tool kit.
> > > A 2 lb club, swung or dropped over as little as 6" can give quite a
> > > substantial blow to a chisel, and if that chisel is angled &
positioned
> > > perfectly then even better. Recently constrained awkwardly under the
> front
> > > of my Syncro, not jacked up, I had drilled out the heads of some
seized
> 10mm
> > > self tappers and managed to finish the job with a pathetically weak
> swing of
> > > a 2lb club and an electricains chisel - taking the heads clean off at
> the
> > > first swing.
> > >
> > > Aside...
> > > I see even builders 'lads' over here all the time hammering away at
> bolster
> > > chisels with a 12 or 16oz claw hammer, risking serious harm to their
> hand
> > > holding the chisel and getting absolutely nowhere, having to swing the
> > > damned thing through a enormous arc to get any force into the target -
> > > ty
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