Date: Wed, 18 Sep 2002 17:58:32 -0400
Reply-To: "G. Matthew Bulley" <gmbulley@BULLEY-HEWLETT.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: "G. Matthew Bulley" <gmbulley@BULLEY-HEWLETT.COM>
Organization: Bulley-Hewlett
Subject: Re: seeking Air Cooled info/advice (82 Westy)
In-Reply-To: <F118pK5KBpQvYnhTyr200002257@hotmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Tim--
How does an engine hoist help eliminate the jacks? The only way the
air-cooled comes out is DOWN*, so???
*unless you spend a 4-6 hours stripping it while it is in the engine
bay, but even then, it would still be a royal pain to hoist it out
Developing business and guiding change since 1996,
G. Matthew Bulley
Bulley-Hewlett
Marketing & Communications
Business: www.bulley-hewlett.com
AIM = IExplain4u
Phone: +1.919.658.1278
-----Original Message-----
From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM] On Behalf
Of Aristotle Sagan
Sent: Wednesday, September 18, 2002 5:49 PM
To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
Subject: Re: seeking Air Cooled info/advice (82 Westy)
Mah advice to yew...
Check compression. All cylinders of the old engine. If everything is up
to
snuff, replace all the peripherals and get it running again. If not,
the drop job is pretty easy (See Matthews posts). With an engine hoist,
whoowhee! No jacks to mess with, no blocks, nothing to slow you down.
Clutch position? Well, if you aren't going to replace it (and I would),
and
just transfer it from one flywheel to the other, there is no position
that
would make sense to mark. And mark on what? I suspect that advice is to
keep
the pressure plate in the same relative position when you are replacing
it
on the same engine. Only applicable if you are doing a front main seal
change. Of course, I would spend the 125 to 150 bucks to replace the
clutch
(plate, pressure plate, and throwout bearing). Don't forget the little
shaft bearing in the end of the crankshaft. I mean, you're in there
anyway.
Longitivity of an Aircooled? About 24 inches front to back.
tim in san jose
>
>Howdy Listees,
>
>Good meeting some of you at the Van-o-rama last weekend.
>
>Background:
>On my way home I had arranged to pick up a complete engine assembly
from an
>81 that was rebuilt 30K ago. My vehicle was purchased as salvage but
is in
>beautiful condition except for an engine compartment fire that melted
parts
>of the peripheral components. The burnt engine has 95K original miles.
I
>have an engine hoist, jack stands and a fairly comprehensive tool
>collection,
>but have never removed a VW engine. (my experience is with aircraft
>reciprocating engines).
>
>My Questions for you:
>1. What is the average longevity of the 2.0l air-cooled when properly
>maintained?
>2. Should I simply replace the peripherals on the burnt engine avoiding
the
>r&
>r process?
>3. If r&r is recommended, is there an easy to follow step-by-step
posted
>anywhere on the list?
>3. I noticed in the Haines manual that it is important to mark the
clutch
>position when removing the engine, this makes me nervous about the r&r.
>What
>is the position mark for and is there a way to figure it out on the
donor
>engine?
>
>TIA for your assistance with this project!
>Salud!
>Loretta Abbott-Kennon
>I
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