Date: Wed, 18 Sep 2002 20:26:09 -0400
Reply-To: "G. Matthew Bulley" <gmbulley@BULLEY-HEWLETT.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: "G. Matthew Bulley" <gmbulley@BULLEY-HEWLETT.COM>
Organization: Bulley-Hewlett
Subject: Re: seeking Air Cooled info/advice (82 Westy)
In-Reply-To: <F262dQk26dc7FOvX125000111d3@hotmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Sorry. I get it now.
You still jack the car up, and still use jack stands, but instead of
using a trolley jack that supports the motor and rolls backwards under
the van, you swing the motor off the transmission using the transmission
shaft and the lower mount bolts as bearers, lower the motor to the
ground, then drag all 425 lbs of it out from under the van on a piece of
plywood.
I can see how much easier that would be. Really. ;-)
Developing business and guiding change since 1996,
G. Matthew Bulley
Bulley-Hewlett
Marketing & Communications
Business: www.bulley-hewlett.com
AIM = IExplain4u
Phone: +1.919.658.1278
-----Original Message-----
From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM] On Behalf
Of Aristotle Sagan
Sent: Wednesday, September 18, 2002 7:27 PM
To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
Subject: Re: seeking Air Cooled info/advice (82 Westy)
Thankyou Chris.
I didn't think it needed explaining. The ornerynest part of the engine
removals I have done (1 aircooled, 1 watercooled) were futzing with the
floorjacks, placing 4x4s, lifting with a long prybar to lower the engine
finally to the ground, etc., etc. I like the concept of tying that
thing up
secure, removing the bolts and lowering the engine to the ground,
sliding it
off the transmission shaft as you go along. Put it on a skidder plate
made
of 1/2 CDX plywood and pull it out.
tim in san jose (sorry I were so obtuse)
>
>Couldn't you swing the hoist into the hatch, wrap it around
>and lower the engine?
>
>Thanks,
>Chris
> > >
> >Tim--
> >
> >How does an engine hoist help eliminate the jacks? The only
>way the
> >air-cooled comes out is DOWN*, so???
> >
> >*unless you spend a 4-6 hours stripping it while it is in
>the engine
> >bay, but even then, it would still be a royal pain to hoist
>it out
> >
> >Developing business and guiding change since 1996,
> >
> >G. Matthew Bulley
> >Bulley-Hewlett
> >Marketing & Communications
> >Business: www.bulley-hewlett.com
> >AIM = IExplain4u
> >Phone: +1.919.658.1278
> >
> >
> >-----Original Message-----
> >From: Vanagon Mailing List
>[mailto:vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM] On Behalf
> >Of Aristotle Sagan
> >Sent: Wednesday, September 18, 2002 5:49 PM
> >To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
> >Subject: Re: seeking Air Cooled info/advice (82 Westy)
> >
> >Mah advice to yew...
> >
> >Check compression. All cylinders of the old engine. If
>everything is up
> >to
> >snuff, replace all the peripherals and get it running
>again. If not,
> >the drop job is pretty easy (See Matthews posts). With an
>engine hoist,
> >whoowhee! No jacks to mess with, no blocks, nothing to slow
>you down.
> >
> >Clutch position? Well, if you aren't going to replace it
>(and I would),
> >and
> >just transfer it from one flywheel to the other, there is
>no position
> >that
> >would make sense to mark. And mark on what? I suspect that
>advice is to
> >keep
> >the pressure plate in the same relative position when you
>are replacing
> >it
> >on the same engine. Only applicable if you are doing a
>front main seal
> >change. Of course, I would spend the 125 to 150 bucks to
>replace the
> >clutch
> >(plate, pressure plate, and throwout bearing). Don't
>forget the little
> >shaft bearing in the end of the crankshaft. I mean, you're
>in there
> >anyway.
> >
> >Longitivity of an Aircooled? About 24 inches front to back.
> >
> >tim in san jose
> >
> >
> >
> > >
> >>Howdy Listees,
> >>
> >>Good meeting some of you at the Van-o-rama last weekend.
> >>
> >>Background:
> >>On my way home I had arranged to pick up a complete engine
>assembly
> >from an
> >>81 that was rebuilt 30K ago. My vehicle was purchased as
>salvage but
> >is in
> >>beautiful condition except for an engine compartment fire
>that melted
> >parts
> >>of the peripheral components. The burnt engine has 95K
>original miles.
> >I
> >>have an engine hoist, jack stands and a fairly
>comprehensive tool
> >>collection,
> >>but have never removed a VW engine. (my experience is with
>aircraft
> >>reciprocating engines).
> >>
> >>My Questions for you:
> >>1. What is the average longevity of the 2.0l air-cooled
>when properly
> >>maintained?
> >>2. Should I simply replace the peripherals on the burnt
>engine avoiding
> >the
> >>r&
> >>r process?
> >>3. If r&r is recommended, is there an easy to follow step-
>by-step
> >posted
> >>anywhere on the list?
> >>3. I noticed in the Haines manual that it is important to
>mark the
> >clutch
> >>position when removing the engine, this makes me nervous
>about the r&r.
> >>What
> >>is the position mark for and is there a way to figure it
>out on the
> >donor
> >>engine?
> >>
> >>TIA for your assistance with this project!
> >>Salud!
> >>Loretta Abbott-Kennon
> >>I
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >____________________________________________________________
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