Date: Thu, 19 Sep 2002 13:44:20 -0400
Reply-To: "G. Matthew Bulley" <gmbulley@BULLEY-HEWLETT.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: "G. Matthew Bulley" <gmbulley@BULLEY-HEWLETT.COM>
Organization: Bulley-Hewlett
Subject: Re: seeking Air Cooled info/advice (82 Westy)
In-Reply-To: <11232E890694F74893375BC7AD88A62DECD558@MAINEX4.ASU.EDU>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
I use the OEM Jack to lift the body. Jack the body up as high as the OEM
jack will go, put jack stands just inboard of the rear jack port. My
jack stands extend 2 "clicks" for this height, and it is the perfect
height for pulling the motor out on a typical 2-ton K-mart trolley jack.
Developing business and guiding change since 1996,
G. Matthew Bulley
Bulley-Hewlett
Marketing & Communications
Business: www.bulley-hewlett.com
AIM = IExplain4u
Phone: +1.919.658.1278
-----Original Message-----
From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM] On Behalf
Of Sean Garrett
Sent: Thursday, September 19, 2002 11:46 AM
To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
Subject: Re: seeking Air Cooled info/advice (82 Westy)
Boy I didn't have this experience with my 81 last fall. Floor jacks
under
the axels were needed to raise the body to slide the engine under. I
didn't
use 1/2 CDX plywd but I still don't think it would have cleared.
Sean Garrett
1981 Westy (his)
1995 Eurovan Camper (hers)
sean.garrett@asu.edu
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Aristotle Sagan [mailto:killer_jupiter@HOTMAIL.COM]
> Sent: Wednesday, September 18, 2002 4:27 PM
> To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
> Subject: Re: seeking Air Cooled info/advice (82 Westy)
>
>
> Thankyou Chris.
>
> I didn't think it needed explaining. The ornerynest part of the engine
> removals I have done (1 aircooled, 1 watercooled) were
> futzing with the
> floorjacks, placing 4x4s, lifting with a long prybar to lower
> the engine
> finally to the ground, etc., etc. I like the concept of
> tying that thing up
> secure, removing the bolts and lowering the engine to the
> ground, sliding it
> off the transmission shaft as you go along. Put it on a
> skidder plate made
> of 1/2 CDX plywood and pull it out.
>
>
> tim in san jose (sorry I were so obtuse)
>
> >
> >Couldn't you swing the hoist into the hatch, wrap it around
> >and lower the engine?
> >
> >Thanks,
> >Chris
> > > >
> > >Tim--
> > >
> > >How does an engine hoist help eliminate the jacks? The only
> >way the
> > >air-cooled comes out is DOWN*, so???
> > >
> > >*unless you spend a 4-6 hours stripping it while it is in
> >the engine
> > >bay, but even then, it would still be a royal pain to hoist
> >it out
> > >
> > >Developing business and guiding change since 1996,
> > >
> > >G. Matthew Bulley
> > >Bulley-Hewlett
> > >Marketing & Communications
> > >Business: www.bulley-hewlett.com
> > >AIM = IExplain4u
> > >Phone: +1.919.658.1278
> > >
> > >
> > >-----Original Message-----
> > >From: Vanagon Mailing List
> >[mailto:vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM] On Behalf
> > >Of Aristotle Sagan
> > >Sent: Wednesday, September 18, 2002 5:49 PM
> > >To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
> > >Subject: Re: seeking Air Cooled info/advice (82 Westy)
> > >
> > >Mah advice to yew...
> > >
> > >Check compression. All cylinders of the old engine. If
> >everything is up
> > >to
> > >snuff, replace all the peripherals and get it running
> >again. If not,
> > >the drop job is pretty easy (See Matthews posts). With an
> >engine hoist,
> > >whoowhee! No jacks to mess with, no blocks, nothing to slow
> >you down.
> > >
> > >Clutch position? Well, if you aren't going to replace it
> >(and I would),
> > >and
> > >just transfer it from one flywheel to the other, there is
> >no position
> > >that
> > >would make sense to mark. And mark on what? I suspect that
> >advice is to
> > >keep
> > >the pressure plate in the same relative position when you
> >are replacing
> > >it
> > >on the same engine. Only applicable if you are doing a
> >front main seal
> > >change. Of course, I would spend the 125 to 150 bucks to
> >replace the
> > >clutch
> > >(plate, pressure plate, and throwout bearing). Don't
> >forget the little
> > >shaft bearing in the end of the crankshaft. I mean, you're
> >in there
> > >anyway.
> > >
> > >Longitivity of an Aircooled? About 24 inches front to back.
> > >
> > >tim in san jose
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > >
> > >>Howdy Listees,
> > >>
> > >>Good meeting some of you at the Van-o-rama last weekend.
> > >>
> > >>Background:
> > >>On my way home I had arranged to pick up a complete engine
> >assembly
> > >from an
> > >>81 that was rebuilt 30K ago. My vehicle was purchased as
> >salvage but
> > >is in
> > >>beautiful condition except for an engine compartment fire
> >that melted
> > >parts
> > >>of the peripheral components. The burnt engine has 95K
> >original miles.
> > >I
> > >>have an engine hoist, jack stands and a fairly
> >comprehensive tool
> > >>collection,
> > >>but have never removed a VW engine. (my experience is with
> >aircraft
> > >>reciprocating engines).
> > >>
> > >>My Questions for you:
> > >>1. What is the average longevity of the 2.0l air-cooled
> >when properly
> > >>maintained?
> > >>2. Should I simply replace the peripherals on the burnt
> >engine avoiding
> > >the
> > >>r&
> > >>r process?
> > >>3. If r&r is recommended, is there an easy to follow step-
> >by-step
> > >posted
> > >>anywhere on the list?
> > >>3. I noticed in the Haines manual that it is important to
> >mark the
> > >clutch
> > >>position when removing the engine, this makes me nervous
> >about the r&r.
> > >>What
> > >>is the position mark for and is there a way to figure it
> >out on the
> > >donor
> > >>engine?
> > >>
> > >>TIA for your assistance with this project!
> > >>Salud!
> > >>Loretta Abbott-Kennon
> > >>I
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >____________________________________________________________
> >_____
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>
>
>
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