Date:         Sun, 22 Sep 2002 16:52:55 -0400
Reply-To:     Bob O Shaughnessy <vanagon@COLUMBUS.RR.COM>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Bob O Shaughnessy <vanagon@COLUMBUS.RR.COM>
Subject:      Re: 85 GL 1.9L Engine Rebuild Qs?
In-Reply-To:  <000701c26245$780a4680$c4442341@cfl.rr.com>
Content-type: text/plain; charset="ISO-8859-1"

On 9/22/02 10:36 AM, "Curt Lewis" <curtis-l-lewis@CFL.RR.COM> wrote:

> Hello All,
> 
> I have a few questions for doing my 1st engine rebuild.  The vehicle/engine
> that this is going to be performed on has 184,XXX miles.   I am planning on
> buying all new or rebuilt parts, everything except crankshaft and
> crankcase....that is if they check out okay.  That being the case and after
> having the crankcase dipped, what all do I need a machinist to check and/or
> test on the crankcase and crankshaft, if anything?

    When I had mine done, I had the shop do everything on the bottom end.
They cleaned the case, checked the crank and pressed new bearings for the
crank and the connecting rods.  They also properly shimmed the crank for end
play.  The guy even had me bring in the new pistons and wrist pins so he
could check the rods.  I seem to remember this being more expensive than I
had thought.  Also have them check the sealing surfaces of the water jackets
for straightness if the engine has ever overheated or blown a head gasket.
    This is also a good time to check the head studs.  You don't want to
snap one off after you've covered the gaskets with elephant snot and torqued
down a few of the head nuts.

> What are the concerns of buying rebuilt heads over new heads?
> 

    Standard stuff, cracks, straightness, valve seats.  One thing that I'd
highly recommend is that you get the gasket sealing surfaces of the heads
ceramic coated.  This will prevent the coolant bubble pitting and erosion of
the gasket mating surfaces.  The shop that coated mine also did the valves
and the combustion chambers.  For extra, they'd do the exhaust ports too.


> 
> Any thoughts or help on the this will be appreciated.  I know I have more
> questions, but can't think of them.  I'm sure I'll remember all of them as
> soon as I hit send.   Please feel free to send responses to the list or my
> pmail.
>
    Do as much as humanly possible.  This is the ultimate "while you're in
there" occasion.  Get a new clutch, new water and oil pumps, new injector
rails, new idle air stabilizer, new fuel lines and new pushrod tubes.
Install a dual oil pressure sensor for an oil pressure gauge.

    Be careful with the cast aluminum stuff.  I sheared off a bolt in the
thermostat housing thingie and had to find an aluminum welding shop to cut
it out and weld up a replacement section.  Then I had to get it drilled and
tapped.  

    Clean and paint everything. I bought a bench grinder with a wire wheel
to strip paint off of parts like the water pipes that crisscross the engine
and the intake plenum.  I'm thinking of getting a bench-top sandblaster for
the diesel rebuild.   I'm also looking for a good paint recommendation for
this type of work.  The stuff I used on my 1.9 didn't stand up to the heat
very well.

    Use the right stuff.  The Kuril elephant snot for the head gasket and
the special yellow VW sealant for the head nuts.  (I got mine from Kyle at
Voks-Café) Check all of the head nuts for pitting and replace as necessary
and follow all of the torque and re-torque directions to the T.  Put as many
stainless fasteners on the engine as you can get.  Make sure that you've got
a good electrical connection at the big ground point.

    Plan as much as possible and you'll have a nice long-living engine.

_________________________________________________________

Bob O'Shaughnessy,         Columbus, OH
vanagon@columbus.rr.com
99 A3 Jetta TDI
82 Diesel Westy (with blown engine) + Quantum TD engine
74 Bus (Dad's)
72 Wife, 95 Cat, 96 Cat, 98 Kid, 00 Kid, 01 Dog
25 House