Date:         Sat, 5 Oct 2002 11:11:50 -0700
Reply-To:     Doktor Tim <doktortim@ROCKISLAND.COM>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Doktor Tim <doktortim@ROCKISLAND.COM>
Subject:      Re: Torque Wrench
Comments: To: "G.M.Bulley" <gmbulley@BULLEY-HEWLETT.COM>
In-Reply-To:  <001b01c26c8f$c0cbf3b0$6701a8c0@gumby>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed

At 09:53 AM 10/05/2002, you wrote:

>Mechanics develop what some jokingly call "torque arm" after some months
>of using a torque wrench. You get a feel for what 25 lb/ft feels like
>versus 8, versus 18 versus 80.

I will add my 2 centavos. I have been wrenching for a very long time. I
have 4 torque wrenches for ranges from a few inch pounds to several hundred
foot pounds. I use feel for all but the most critical fasteners, like the
Volvo 7mm aluminum fine threads on cooling flanges, to determine if they
will hold spec torque if they appear to be compromised in any way, valve
cover fasteners where too much torque will warp the covers or crush the
gasket too much, and cylinder head bolts. I have both beam type and clicker
type.

Know you cannot use a click type wrench for Wasserboxer heads. Only a beam
type will give accurate torque for these very long studs. And ALWAYS
replace them ALL if even the tiniest bit of corrosion or pitting is evident
or you risk do the whole job over far too soon.

For the torques in excess of 200 foot pounds, I normally use a weight ratio
calculation rather than a torque wrench.

>Until then, I wouldn't do ANYTHING on a VW without a torque wrench.


Good advise for the do-it-yourselfer. My experience allows me to feel a
thread giving prematurely before it pulls, with or without a torque wrench.
Many times prior to and during disassembly, I use a torque wrench to test a
fastener to see if it will hold spec torque. I don't want to discover this
upon re-assembly.