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Date:         Wed, 2 Oct 2002 07:59:48 -0400
Reply-To:     "G.M.Bulley" <gmbulley@BULLEY-HEWLETT.COM>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         "G.M.Bulley" <gmbulley@BULLEY-HEWLETT.COM>
Organization: Bulley-Hewlett
Subject:      Re: On the Vanagon Cooling System
Comments: To: FrankGRUN@AOL.COM
In-Reply-To:  <74.23f80a7b.2acbe4c3@aol.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

FG--"Ok, so what is the capacity of the Vanagon radiator core. Answer (thank you, archives), 23.250 (W) x 16.50 (H) x 1.75 (T) for 671.34 cubic inches. I therefore have effectively twice the cooling capacity in the radiator than I need."

Er, wait a minute. Does the volume figure for a radiator come from it's exterior dimensions, fins and all, or from its true volume, (i.e.: fill it with water, drain the water into a bucket, measure what's in the bucket)?

Bringing your ideas to life,

G. Matthew Bulley Bulley-Hewlett Business: www.bulley-hewlett.com

-----Original Message----- From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM] On Behalf Of Frank Grunthaner Sent: Wednesday, October 02, 2002 1:57 AM To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM Subject: On the Vanagon Cooling System

Among those threads that triggered a negative response on my part were several that addressed the apparently accepted wisdom of the marginal capacity of the vanagon cooling system. Now some time ago, I put into the archives a summary of my measurements of the thermal performance of the stock I4 system and stated that it was actually strongly overcooled. Then again, some individuals return with the idea that removing the thermostat or switching to a lower temperature one will give the system the necessary extra capacity it was lacking. Well, while licking my wounds and sitting here amazed at what beta blockers can do to your general energy level, I decided not to complete my physicians recommended text of the day ("35 Delicious Ways to Prepare a High-Fiber Diet of Sawdust") and returned to some of my cooling system notes. Unfortunately for you, I decided to share them with list before Tom blocks me for needlessly verbose posting.

To begin, there are several key issues: 1) the thermal handling capability of the radiator, 2) the flow rate of the water pump, 3) the flow resistance of the plumbing going fore and aft and 4) the level of energy generated by the hot air pump in the rear whether it be a lowly I4, a perverse WBXer or an exhaulted Subie 6.

1). Radiator capacity. There are well known engineering rules for determining the necessary effective thermal handling capacity of the closed loop/water/ethylene glycol cooling system. The rules digest to a volume ratio. The core volume of the radiator must be at least a multiple of the engine displacement. The baseline factor is a multiplier of 2.0 (that is, engine displacement of x, then radiator core volume of 2x). This factor is then adjusted by known inefficiencies and additional loads. The inline engine adds 0.1 to the ratio; outside temperatures above 105 F, add 0.2; for a small engine in a large vehicle, add 0.2; for air conditioning add 0.3; for a small tight engine compartment, add 0.3; for a standard transmission subtract 0.1; for a full fan shroud, subtract 0.2; for a horizontal flow radiator, subtract 0.2; for a diesel engine add 0.6; for medium trailer towing, add 0.2. It goes on and on. For my interesting case (inline, hot, small, AC, tight, manual, shroud and crossflow with tow) I come up with a factor of 2.8 times displacement. For my application, the 2.0L Audi 3A motor displaces 121 cubic inches, so I need a radiator core volume of 338 cubic inches. If I had a 2.0L TDi with an automatic, my ratio would be 3.5 and my core requirement would be 423 cubic inches. The Subaru guys don't like these long winded posts so they will have to do the math.

Ok, so what is the capacity of the Vanagon radiator core. Answer (thank you, archives), 23.250 (W) x 16.50 (H) x 1.75 (T) for 671.34 cubic inches. I therefore have effectively twice the cooling capacity in the radiator than I need. Overcooled says I. Good design says I. Of course, if its broken fix it, but no need to improve the engineering. Along this line, I should point out that the factory Ford Mustang with HiPo 302 cid V8 engine ships with 648 cubic inch radiator core and this calculation suggests that it needs 698 cubic inches. Good VW design. This discussion actually assumes Al core radiators and Cu would be somewhat better.

2). Flow rate of the water pump. Well, this has proven hard to lock down. VW holds that this info is classified and only available in Slovenian! Several specs are given for industrial engines of 1.0 to 1.4L displacement. These are given as 15 gallons per minute at 2000 rpm. Several V8 engine design manuals call for 5 gallons per minute at idle and 22 gpm at 4000 rpm. Well instrumented tests of GM 4 cylinder engine water pumps give the same flow rates as each side of the Chevy small block pump: 14.37 GPM at 2000 rpm pump shaft speed and 37.08 GPM at shaft speeds of 5000. All these numbers are without cavitation. I therefore assume that the VW water pump driven at proper shaft speeds is generating a flow rate of about 5 GPM at idle and better than 35 at 6000 rpm. This corresponds to 20 L/Min at idle and 150 L/Min at 6K. That's a complete coolant capacity exchange every 50 seconds at idle and every 6.5 seconds at 6000 rpm. More than adequate by any reference.

3). Plumbing flow resistance. Well, for this exercise I did some measurements on one of my Saturday Morning Junkyard Constitutionals. The entrance and exit radiator ports on the VW Fox (7 examples) are 25.0 mm in diameter. These ports on the Audi 5000T (big turbocharged beastie, 2.4 L I think) are 27.5 mm in diameter and the inlet/outlet tubes on the diesel Vanagon I found ('82) were 43 mm in diameter. Now the resistance to flow of an incompressible fluid through a pipe is directly proportional to pipe length and inversely proportional to the internal pipe diameter. Taking into account these relationships and assuming a to and fro length of 135 inches for the Vanagon pipes, we can compare the Vanagon plumbing resistance to that of the Audi. Such a calculation says the Vanagon tubes have a flow resistance of the equivalent of 45 inches of Audi plumbing. Now the actual Audi run is closer to 24 inches. But the Vanagon tubes have a lower roughness and frictional loss (metal or hard plastic vs. rubber). The Audi hoses I saw were corrugated (more losses) and had several complex bends. In the end the best way to measure reality is to do a pressure vs. flow plot before bolting up the conversion engine (to paraphrase the elderly retired over the hill Suburu operating gent). Measurements rule! Nonetheless, I would argue that the VW engineers sized the Vanagon plumbing for similar flows (within 20%) of that obtained in the longitudinal and transverse cars in their stable. Certainly fully compatible with radiator size and pump capacity. Good design I say. Certainly compatible with anything the Subie or TIICO or Turbocharged crowd can throw at it.

Of course, this neglects head pressure when the radiator is 45 degrees above the engine and the driver is holding on with white knuckles, too frightened to look at the coolant gauge. This also neglects the direct injection of combustion gases into the cooling jacket.

4). Energy injected. Well, this is actually treated by the general capacity discussion of part 1. But for reference, consider that the power generated by the hot air engine is roughly one third of the power processed. One third goes out the exhaust as heat and about one third goes into the cooling system for dissipation. So if your conversion pumps out a real level of 30% more horses than the WBxer, then 30% more heat has to be processed by the cooling system. Lets see, Diesel ... 42 Hp, Turbo Audi about 160 Hp! Glad we have that extra capacity.

In closing, I want to take a swipe at the thermostat wisdom. It is true that removing the thermostat leads to block overheating. It is not true that this is due to higher flow through the radiator - going too fast for cooling. The reason is that a minimum head pressure must be maintained across the water pump to eliminate cavitation. Lower temperature thermostats just throw your money down the drain. Lower engine efficiency. The engine operates more and more efficiently as the coolant temperature goes up to 105 C (for the ethylene glycol/water system). The peak efficiency is around 122 C with pure propylene glycol. Of course, at 87 C, the hot spots in the block are probably well above 170 C! Small differences in mean control temperature are irrelevant to the thermal stability of the system ... as I just tried to show.

With apologies for length, I'm glad I finally got that off my chest!

Frank Grunthaner


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