Date: Wed, 9 Oct 2002 09:08:56 -0700
Reply-To: gary hradek <hradek@YAHOO.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: gary hradek <hradek@YAHOO.COM>
Subject: Re: Air in the system
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
I have to agree with Malcolm,
The need to raise the rpm to 2k is not needed in the
model year 86 or higher. doing so however
will speed the process along so if your paying someone
by the hour it is a good idea. What is required is to
run and bleed the system for several minutes after you
can feel the thermostat open. Both front hoses
should be really hot. Turn both heaters on too but
after the thermostat opens. The need to remove all
the air is also not required but you must check your
coolant level each time you drive and top it off
before starting it up by removing the blue cap and
adding to that tank "when cold"(the tank under
pressure). Over time all air will be removed.
These things work with model year 86 and higher
because of the coolant ring. 85 and older is
different and more care is required to get all the air
out. Even a small air pocket can create major
problems. This is why the coolant ring was added.
gary
To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
cc:
Subject: Re: Air in the system
If I may make a suggestion here: One does not have to
"remove" the
bleed screw to get air out of the system. One just
has to loosen the
bleed screw (with engine at 2,000 or 3,000 rpms) till
one hears air
coming out from the threads of the bleed screw. This
way, after the
air is expelled, there will just be a trickle of
coolant and one can
easily
close the bleed screw without making a mess.
Also I have found that if the engine is at normal
working temps, there
is no need to rev the engine, the 'normal' pressure in
the coolant
system is enough to force air up through the loosened
coolant bolt
threads.
I do this every 500 kms after changing the coolant
till I no longer get
any air out of the system. Also remember to bleed the
thermostat (if
there is a bleed screw on top of it). Malcolm
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