Date: Tue, 8 Oct 2002 11:03:23 -0500
Reply-To: Stan Wilder <wilden1@JUNO.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Stan Wilder <wilden1@JUNO.COM>
Subject: Re: emergency fuel line repair (long)
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
I'm a firm believer in Murphy's law.
Right from the beginning 8 years ago when I got my 83 Westy I started
carrying spare parts.
I was pretty much Volkswagen Stupid at that time.
I was running 10/30 motor oil for 70,000 miles and had no problems.
Eventually I seized #4 piston hard enough to break some ring lands.
Back to the emergency repairs:
Most parts on my Air Cooled fail slowly, they give indication that they
are going to fail.
The fuel lines are one exception.
Careful selection of the proper (domestic) Fuel Injection line and the
OEM clamps if you can get them are added security against failure or
fires.
The reason I suggest OEM hose clamps is ............... the clamp should
tighten down on the hose, but still have six or seven threads open when
the clamp is fully securing the line. You don't have this indicator with
the Ideal type screw clamps. Its hard to judge when your lines are
getting soft. If you have OEM clamps and you can bring them to a full
stop by running to the full closure, you need new fuel lines because the
old ones have gone soft or you've got regular fuel lines and not FI line.
I avoid fuel lines with braided covers because you can't see surface
splits in the lines.
Just as a matter of 'the rebuilding program' I installed all new rubber
brake lines.
I found that I could barely get a round toothpick into the old brake
lines.
The new lines had a full 1/8" inside diameter.
Anytime you're driving a 20 year vehicle its best to address all parts as
if they are about to fail and do the maintenance or replacement of parts
involving safety (fire is included in safety).
With 300,000 plus miles on my Westy I installed new rear wheel bearings,
something I had forever avoided.
I had a local truck stop break the axle nuts loose and I went home,
installed the new bearings, then drove to the truck stop and had them re
torque the axle nuts.
The interesting thing I found was that although the axle housing
contained plenty of grease, it had solidified and wasn't getting to the
bearings. It was locked in its own little pockets throughout the axle
housing.
The bearings were slightly loose and beginning to show signs of heat
(blue color). These bearings may have run another 50K but I doubt it.
Since I've torn down about ten or more type IV engines I've discovered
that the lower push rod covers catch oil. That isn't news; but I've found
that they will hold substantial amounts of oil once they get enough oil
and grit to seal them to the block and heater boxes. I've found evidence
of fires in these covers, proven by the cooked oil and smoked up cylinder
heads. These fires self extinguished or otherwise burned themselves out
before they flash fired the engine. It has been my policy to clean my
engine at the do-it-yourself car wash about three times a year. Then to
prove my paranoia I drilled a couple of 3/8" inch holes in the lowest
part of the push rod cover plates so oil from leaking push rod tubes
could escape.
It has taken me a long time to get everything right on my 83 Westy.
Much of that time has been spent communicating with list members on petty
problems and the bigger problems. I've picked up a lot of tips and tricks
for the non-mechanic while learning the engine rebuilding from hands on
and advice from some of the pro engine builders that seldom post to the
list.
Hopefully some of the little tips and tricks along with my opinions why
they are necessary has helped a few list members.
Stan Wilder
83 Air Cooled Westfalia
Steve Sandlin <vwcarlocks@HOTMAIL.COM> writes:
.
> Sometimes you just gotta improvise!
> Steve Sandlin
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