Vanagon EuroVan
Previous messageNext messagePrevious in topicNext in topicPrevious by same authorNext by same authorPrevious page (October 2002, week 4)Back to main VANAGON pageJoin or leave VANAGON (or change settings)ReplyPost a new messageSearchProportional fontNon-proportional font
Date:         Thu, 24 Oct 2002 01:22:44 -0400
Reply-To:     JM/CO <jmerritt2@CAPECOD.NET>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         JM/CO <jmerritt2@CAPECOD.NET>
Subject:      Re: newbie questions '84 digijet
Comments: To: Harry Ruble <bmw635csi@HOTMAIL.COM>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"

The injectors come out easily, ( one 10 mm bolt will remove one pair ), don't have "O" rings as such, but rather round seals which should probably be replaced given the age of this engine. This is an easy job, and the parts are cheap. NAPA stocks them, as well as the regular VW parts sources. Regarding the "Hall" unit, this is part of the ignition system, and is not the source of your problem. The first thing to do, is obtain a known good ECU and swap it with yours. If the thing starts, you have solved the problem. If not, you have eliminated the most costly possible culprit. These vehicles have gotten to the age where the wiring harness has often deteriorated to a point where connections that appear to be ok are, in fact, open or have gone high resistance. The connectors are all of the "crimp-on" variety, and are subject to corrosion where the wire enters the connector. Carefully clean and examine all of the terminations. Wash them down with gasoline, and than with acetone. Pay particular attention to ground connectors. Just because a connection reads "Zero" ohms to ground with an ohmmeter, does not mean that it is still capable of handling the current actually demanded by some particular circuit. If anything even LOOKS questionable, replace it. When replacing ground connectors, SOLDER them. Do not rely on the crimp alone. Do not overlook the ground strap that goes between the block ( just inboard of the left cyl. head ) to the body, just under the coil. Clean the block. Clean all the ground lugs with "scotchbrite", or fine sandpaper. Oil everything when you put it back together. Be methodical, and have patience. Good luck Chuck -- '83 Westy and '84 Jaguar XJ-6 with essentially, the same FI system ( Bosch L-Jetronic ) ----- Original Message ----- From: "Harry Ruble" <bmw635csi@HOTMAIL.COM> To: <vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM> Sent: Wednesday, October 23, 2002 2:03 AM Subject: newbie questions '84 digijet

> Thanks for the replys: I should have given a little more info... The engine > runs when you spray gas into the air intake. Purrs like a kitten..till it > uses up the gas, so that rules out ignition. The fuel pump runs for the 3 > seconds, I have also jumpered it at the relay and can hear the fuel flowing > in the lines back by the motor, but haven't as yet checked the pressure. I > have a gauge but was waiting to get 'er running first. I'm as good as > postive that the injectors aren't operating. I've ohmed the ecu connector > (disconnected) 23&7,24&7,13&7,12&7. the readings are a little higher than > 16-16.4 more like 18-19. the injectors ohm at 15.6 all the same. Grounds > at 25 and 7 are good- 0 ohms. I also cleaned them at the head and by the > relay box. > > I've checked the relays following the procedure in the Bentley...all good. > How do you go about checking the pulse from terminal 7 of the Hall control > unit. And just what is it's function? I'm guessing more for the ignition > side than fuel??? > > Can a bad temp sensor II cause the injectors to not function? > > I thought about pulling an injector set to check for fuel spray, but figured > that the o-rings would crack since they probably never have been out. There > are o-rings in there right? Or do they come out easily? > > I appreciate everyones help > Harry Ruble > > the injectors will only be energized here and there. that is probably > not the best way to start. whtis the problem? is it turning over? is > there fuel pressure? Is tthe fuel pump kicking in? there is a fuel pump > relay that will cause issues. You should be able to hear the fuel pump > when you turn the ignition on. it should go on for like 3-5 seconds and > then shut off. it is under the bus sort of under the passanger''s butt. > > also, check the ICU (the think bolted to the heat sink on the left hand > firewall. if that is dead then you won't get anywhere. got a spark?> if > no spark then it's a bad coil or icu. the ecu on th eother hand rarely > fails actually. > > matthew > > > > > > _________________________________________________________________ > Internet access plans that fit your lifestyle -- join MSN. > http://resourcecenter.msn.com/access/plans/default.asp


Back to: Top of message | Previous page | Main VANAGON page

Please note - During the past 17 years of operation, several gigabytes of Vanagon mail messages have been archived. Searching the entire collection will take up to five minutes to complete. Please be patient!


Return to the archives @ gerry.vanagon.com


The vanagon mailing list archives are copyright (c) 1994-2011, and may not be reproduced without the express written permission of the list administrators. Posting messages to this mailing list grants a license to the mailing list administrators to reproduce the message in a compilation, either printed or electronic. All compilations will be not-for-profit, with any excess proceeds going to the Vanagon mailing list.

Any profits from list compilations go exclusively towards the management and operation of the Vanagon mailing list and vanagon mailing list web site.