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Date:         Wed, 20 Nov 2002 22:26:52 +0100
Reply-To:     Robert Steven Fish <fish@SALZBURG.CO.AT>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Robert Steven Fish <fish@SALZBURG.CO.AT>
Subject:      Re: running light out-break in wiring and question
Comments: To: Scott Wilson <smorewhisky@YAHOO.COM>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"

------ snipped ----- got voltage at all other terminals, just not the running light. ----- end snipped ------

Hi Scott,

I have been working a bit with my wiring diagrams to set up a trailer hitch on my 87. What you will notice, as you examine the wiring diagrams, is that the left and right "channels" are seperated on the headlights, as well as the tail lights. On my Vanagon, the wire supplying power to the Right Rear Tail Light is "gray/red" and the Left Rear Tail Light is "gray/black".

The reason for keeping them seperate is that if something goes wrong in the circuit, you will only lose one side. This is rather important, as when you blow the fuse due to some crazy short circuit, or other contact problem, only one side goes out, and you still have one functional light. Cars with no tail lights at night are almost impossible to see in bad conditions.

If you were to bypass the original wiring (I would not recommend this), both sides would then be fused to the same fuse, and this, in my opinion is neither wise, nor safe.

The other thing to consider, as you tweak your wiring, is that your tail light which is not receiving current at the light, may very well be sending current from the fuse box (have you checked this?). If it is, and you have a broken wire somewhere, then you will get a short, and if all is working well, the fuse should blow. If your fuse is not blown now, and the wire is hanging broken somewhere, you will get a short eventually.

I would suggest testing the wiring by grounding your test light or multimeter, and then locating the gray/red and gray/black wires. See if they have power... be certain that the fuses are not blown... then check for power at the fuse block. Generally if these wires were to be broken, or corroded, they should be damaged in an area which is able to be found, relatively close to either the fuse block or the light... see if you can trace the wire as far back as possible and find a defect.

For the time being, if running a jumper over from the other side solves your immediate problem, go for it... but do yourself a favor and fix it correctly, even if it does mean pulling a wire from front to rear (which is not all that difficult) eventually.

See ya,

RSF

IMPORTANT!!! In order to reply to me, you must have the word "FISH" somewhere in the subject line of the email. Otherwise it goes directly in the trash.

<º)))>{ <º)))>{ <º)))>{ <º)))>{ <º)))>{ <º)))>{

Robert S. Fish Salzburg, Austria 1987 Wolfsburg Vanagon 2.1 GL Weekender 1987 Golf Cabriolet 1991 Golf


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