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Date:         Tue, 26 Nov 2002 08:24:03 -0800
Reply-To:     TJ Hannink <tjhannink@YAHOO.COM>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         TJ Hannink <tjhannink@YAHOO.COM>
Subject:      Re: westfalia 2nd battery question
Comments: To: Neil Wasbrikoff <wasbrikoff@NETSCAPE.NET>
Comments: cc: Wolfsburg Campers <wolfsburg_campers@yahoogroups.com>
In-Reply-To:  <587420B0.2ED774DA.10C3CA4A@netscape.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

Hi Neil,

There is a Yahoo!Group dedicated to your camper model called Wolfsburg_Campers, see my signature for the hyperlink. I recently posted a file describing the auxilary battery relay wiring and its operation on that site.

--- Neil Wasbrikoff <wasbrikoff@NETSCAPE.NET> wrote: > Hello Vanagon community,

> Any suggestions for what to check, to allow my aux battery to charge when I > drive? Should the aux battery charge when being driven?

Yes, when the engine is running, relay under the drivers seat should connect both positive terminals of the batteries allowing the alternator to charge both of them.

> I have the camper with no appliances, and am wondering also ... what all does > the second battery power?

If your wiring is stock, the 2nd battery should only be connected to the lighter socket on the inside of the right seat pedestal. Thats where the Dometic RC160E fridge (that goes behind the passenger seat) would plug in.

> Can I change the wiring easily, so that my interior > lights can be wired off my aux and not my main?

"Easy" is a relative term. It really depends on whether you want to run the wiring exposed or not..

If you wanted to hide the wiring, you would need to find a pathway for the wiring to get from the left upper bunk support (where the flourescent light mounts) to the auxiliary battery box. I ran my wiring inside the "B" pillar (where the latches are for the front doors) and cut a hole in it just above the metal shelf on the rear-facing jumpseat. There is an existing hole about 8" further down the "B" pillar, but you will need to remove the jumpseat to see it (its easy to remove, 4-13mm bolts and 2-phillips screws).

You will have to remove the left upper bunk support to run the cabling, but that involves only about 12 phillips screws and their plastic covers. I have a bundle about 2" in diameter that runs from behind the jumpseat to the rear cabinet to support my A/V system installation.

Check my Yahoo!Photo Album for photos of my vans wiring.

===== TJ Hannink Goldibox - 1987 Vanagon Camper, Wolfsburg Edition Winter Park, Florida http://home.earthlink.net/~tjhannink/ http://groups.yahoo.com/group/wolfsburg_campers http://photos.yahoo.com/tjhannink [Vanagon] Album

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