Date: Mon, 9 Dec 2002 23:09:26 -0800
Reply-To: Jeffrey Schwaia <jeff@TSSGI.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Jeffrey Schwaia <jeff@TSSGI.COM>
Subject: Re: Wasserboxer Reputation . long
In-Reply-To: <5.1.0.14.2.20021210003836.021bbc60@pop1.attglobal.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Take a breath... and read my earlier post. This was not about Toyotas...
Perhaps you should sell your VW's and buy a Toyota camper?
Too many squeaky wheels in Vanagon land.
Cheers,
Jeff
-----Original Message-----
From: David Beierl [mailto:dbeierl@attglobal.net]
Sent: Monday, December 09, 2002 10:58 PM
To: Jeffrey Schwaia
Cc: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
Subject: Re: Wasserboxer Reputation . long
At 10:02 PM 12/9/2002, Jeffrey Schwaia wrote:
>I must disagree about 1980 - 1990 Honda, Toyota, etc. engines being a class
>above the WBX. The fact that many of these manufacturers where still using
>carburetors during this time frame is enough to condemn them in a
technology
>debate.
That doesn't make sense to me. They managed to meet emissions standards of
the day while using carburetors on some of their vehicles. VW was using
carburetors on some of its non-US vehicles too. All the Japanese and
Toyota in particular were building relatively cheap cars that were
comfortable to drive, handled reasonably, looked good inside and out and
continued to look good over time. Trim didn't shrink, dashboards didn't
crack, steering wheels didn't crack. The engines were smooth within
reasonable limits for a straight four, didn't use oil, didn't need repairs
beyond routine filter changes and such, and maybe a weeping half-moon
gasket (where they bored the camshaft journals). They were nicely
finished. Toyota used O-rings and grease on practically every electrical
connector outside the cabin, so all the connections stayed just like they
came from the factory. They used modern fuses that youdidn't have to spin
in the mounts every time the weather got a bit humid. Wiring harnesses
were neat and tidy and worked well. Main busses were protected with
high-capacity fuses. Things looked neat and logical. Bolts were designed
so the nuts captured themselves on tightening. Alternators had jackscrews
to adjust belt tension. Transmissions were smooth and quiet and didn't
break. There were relays to drive horn, headlights, fans etc. etc.
Upholstery held up -- my folks bought a Ford Escort at the same time I got
a Toyota Tercel for about $2000 more ($4k and $6k roughly). The Escort was
evil to drive, seats uncomfortable, couldn't drive at 25-30 mph because it
was too fast for second gear and too slow for third. At 60,000 miles
everything about the car was tired, the seats were rump-sprung (and my
folks weigh a lot less than I do), it was basically junk. At 120,000 miles
when I crashed the Tercel it had been recalled for a faulty ignition
module, needed a replacement horn because the factory had mounted the weep
hole facing up -- probably I shouldn't have pressure-washed the engine so
much -- and I had caught the turn signal lever in the hem of my trenchcoat
and broken it -- spent many more hours than it was worth repairing it b/c I
was darned if I'd pay $72 for the assembly when I needed one $2 plastic
part. At 96,000 the fuel sender wore out and started getting erratic. I
repaired the wiper on the sender and put it back in service. It had
exhaust work. At 120,000 the engine was not using a drop of oil between
changes. The interior and exterior were in fine shape, looked like a
slightly used car. Struts and shocks were original. I had it repaired and
sold it to a friend who drove it well over 200k without problems -- not
even changing the timing belt.
I cannot tell a lie -- the carburetor had a slight hesitation accelerating
from slow speeds, and so did the very similar (but faster and quieter) 1986
Corolla sedan that I got (for another $2000) to replace it -- my wife made
an ill-judged left turn with that one, and it bit the dust at around 140k
miles. Looked practically new, seats nice and firm, interior trim all
good, major work was new shocks/struts all around. Insurance guy totalled
it, but gave us a high allowance. because it was in such nice shape. Our
'90 Corolla wagon (with fuel injection) is going strong at ?150k? -- it
needs a water pump sometime in the next milennium, and the dark-blue vinyl
on top of the dash is cracking from the sun, which really irritates me --
either a bad batch or they cheaped out. And it needs a CV boot. We bought
it at 102,000 miles, and 10k later one of the struts loosened in the strut
tower. I torqued it back down and it's been fine since. Easy to do since
Toyota seals those towers with rubber caps and puts a dollop of grease
under the cap. The fuel reserve light isnt' working, problem with the
sender. And the only serious problem yet, the exhaust manifold cracked
between 2 and 3 cylinder. This wasn't even discovered until the local
garage buggered the studs that mount the exhaust downpipe and bellows to
the manifold. Replacement manifold about $250. The radiator fins are
starting to rot in some places from the road salt (just like the much newer
replacement radiator on my Westy) and sooner or later it will need
replacing. At 150,000 the rear brakes are getting thin, but the adjusters
still work. The fronts of course don't last as long. The single-piston
front brake calipers have rubber boots on the sliding bolts so they don't
seize up. There's minor rust on rear corners of doors where they get run
aground, and on a small area behind and below rear door; probably rocker
panel. Both Toyotas had little rubber drains for the sealed running lights,
and on both of them the rubber rotted after a few years.
In 210,000 miles the Westy has had water pump around 60k, a new/rebuilt
transmission and clutch from VW (in Scotland) at 85,000, then partially
rebuilt around 150k, heads resealed at 90,000, AFM replaced with used at
100K or so, then again with used at 205k, and it really needs a new
one. New radiator around 90,000. Bearings and rings same time. Left
steering boot has rotted. Heater fan has failed twice, not to mention
having to have a separate circuit run for the high-speed position. Heater
air-box foam (flap seals etc) rotted. Both heater cores pinhole
leaks. Full engine rebuild at 175k and more work on heads 198k due to
receding valve seats. Rear brake backing plates replaced, fronts
antisplash plates have rusted to nothing and need replacing. Horn switch
ring wore through (repaired with bronze brazing rod silver-brazed to the
original). New brake calipers around 150k. Four clutches and a flywheel
between 160k and 198k -- each one developed chatter detectable at 2500
miles and irritating at 10,000. Plenty of seam rust. Bad (overheating)
terminals at alternator and fuse/relay panel. New coolant pipes around
100k, replaced rear portions with hose 205k. All four CV joints replaced
various times, possibly a couple of them twice. Alternator regulator
replaced three times -- two brush wear-outs and one sudden death/no
charge. Alternator rebuilt once. One rebult starter at 90k, and the
present one is starting to show symptoms. I'm confident the van will go on
for a long time yet so long as I keep dropping money in it -- but having
owned, lessee -- Sunbeam Alpine Series II, Fiat 128 Special, Saab 96 (V4),
Plymouth Horizon -- I got used to carrying a machine shop around with
me. Then I got Toyotas and after 3-4 years put the machine shop away
because it never got used. Now I have a Vanagon, and guess what I've
started carrying again?
david
--
David Beierl - Providence RI USA -- http://pws.prserv.net/synergy/Vanagon/
'84 Westy "Dutiful Passage"
'85 GL "Poor Relation"
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