Date: Mon, 9 Dec 2002 09:59:43 -0800
Reply-To: gary hradek <hradek@YAHOO.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: gary hradek <hradek@YAHOO.COM>
Subject: Re: DCL
In-Reply-To: <20021209175205.6272.qmail@webmail.speakeasy.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Joe,
I just put the waterpump in the van so I feel
rather pumped up. I am thinking a new engine sound
good but there is a challenge that comes with these
vanagon.
So I the idiot bend down to the challenge.
thanks gary
--- fortinoj@speakeasy.net wrote:
> sorry for the cross post :)
>
>
> i have a pair of 1.9l german heads if you like or
> if your going to use new AMC this would out of the
> question.
>
> BTW i was going to do my heads but after putting
> them off
> the push tubes and valves were bit fried so i had a
> rebuild
> done. Some of the parts removal can be tricky, water
> pump
> bolt snapped on me and a head-stud grabbed and
> snapped, comman for steel studs but after looking at
> the wear on the
> motor i said well this is our only car so i want it
> to run
> for the same as the motor before.
>
> take it eazy
> Joe
>
> On 09 Dec 2002, gary hradek wrote:
>
> > Brian, I am at the early stages of the dreaded
> > coolant leakon the right side. Since things
> > are fresh in your mind I have a few questions.
> > 1)Do you think that if I remove the pushrod
> > cover and spray lubricant on the outside of
> > the gasket and drive the van, repeating this
> > procedure many times, not getting the van too
> > hot that I can increase my chances of pulling
> > the head from the cylinder. Kind of a rust
> > buster approach?
> > 2) What position should the crank be in to
> > best avoid the problem of the cylinder
> > pulling past the rings?
> > 3) If I do pull past the rings would there be
> > any advantage to replacing the rings?
> > 4) Did you reuse your pushrod tubes?
> > 5) How much of the exhaust system did you
> > remove?
> > 6) Where did you get your new gasket and what
> > other parts might be replaced at the time
> > this work is being done. any help
> > appreciated, thanks gary
> >
> > Date: Sat, 7 Dec 2002 12:16:54 -0800 From:
> > Brian Spisak <bspisak@HOTMAIL.COM> Subject:
> > Success! (Cylinder install after removal stuck
> > to head)
> >
> > I sit here elated less than 5 minutes after
> > resinstalling my cylinder after I removed it
> > from the engine stuck to my head. After
> > reading the archives, I was lead to believe
> > that this was a near impossible task to
> > perform, especially on the smaller clearance
> > number 1 or 4 cyclinders. Maybe I got lucky,
> > but I must say that the 20 minutes it took to
> > do is by far a much better option than
> > struggling trying to get the cylinder unstuck
> > over the course of 3 days. I still wouldn't
> > recommend pulling the cylinder unless it is
> > truly stuck, so do your best, but if worst
> > comes to worst, don't be afraid to give this
> > method a shot. (To free my cylinder, even with
> > out on the bench, I had to heat the head with
> > a torch, and slam the thing with a heavy
> > mallet - ouch!)
> >
> > For those who might benefit in the future
> > here's how it worked:
> >
> > Buy a plier type ring compressor set. You can
> > get these on eBay for under $30 or you can buy
> > an expensive name brand. I used the cheap eBay
> > ones, and the only thing I caution is not to
> > over-tighten the band as they will crack if
> > you do. I was using a size too big, so it
> > didn't stop the job. I ended up using the
> > 3-3/8 - 3-5/8 size.
> >
> > Get the piston TDC. Clean the piston and
> > rings. Offset the rings 90 degrees. Position
> > the band so that its ears are between the top
> > and bottom head bolts in the center of the
> > block. This allows you to put the pliers on
> > and angle them out of the way of the cylinder
> > as you push it on. Pull the adjacent
> > cyclinder just out of its seat so you can get
> > a little play in
> > it.You'll need all the room you can get for
> > the cylinder to clear the pliers! Clamp the
> > band down, leaving the top edge of the
> > piston exposed to get the cylinder started.
> > If one side of your pliers is lower profile
> > than the other, make sure this side is
> > toward the piston. (The pivot bolt on my
> > protruded more on one side and interferred
> > just enough that I had to reverse them.)
> > Push the cylinder on slowly checking top
> > and bottom to make sure the rings are
> > compressed and sliding in. Once the
> > cylinder hits the pliers, it gets tight,
> > and you have to bump the cylinder gently
> > in. I resisted using a mallet, and instead
> > used the palm of my hand to avoid
> > damaging the rings if they were hung up.
> > As long as it keeps moving you are fine.
> > Push the cylinder on just to the point
> > the bottom ring is inside. To get the
> > band off, I had to push it to the bottom
> > of the cylinder until I could push the
> > ear of the band in enough to clear the
> > head bolt. If the cylinder were down any
> > farther than it was, I couldn't have got
> > it out. Once one of the ears of the
> > compressor band is past the head bolt,
> > you can expand it enough (just barely!)
> > to get it to slide over the entire
> > cylinder to get it out.
> >
> > Go here to see my diagram of where to position
> > the band. http://www.geocities.com/bsassone/v-
> > anagon/ringband.bmp
> >
> > Brian
> >
> >
> >
> > __________________________________________-
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