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Date:         Tue, 10 Dec 2002 01:58:12 -0500
Reply-To:     David Beierl <dbeierl@ATTGLOBAL.NET>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         David Beierl <dbeierl@ATTGLOBAL.NET>
Subject:      Re: Wasserboxer Reputation  . long
Comments: To: Jeffrey Schwaia <jeff@TSSGI.COM>
In-Reply-To:  <CAEOIPKOOCKNBBDDDMBPOEDICGAA.jeff@tssgi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed

At 10:02 PM 12/9/2002, Jeffrey Schwaia wrote: >I must disagree about 1980 - 1990 Honda, Toyota, etc. engines being a class >above the WBX. The fact that many of these manufacturers where still using >carburetors during this time frame is enough to condemn them in a technology >debate.

That doesn't make sense to me. They managed to meet emissions standards of the day while using carburetors on some of their vehicles. VW was using carburetors on some of its non-US vehicles too. All the Japanese and Toyota in particular were building relatively cheap cars that were comfortable to drive, handled reasonably, looked good inside and out and continued to look good over time. Trim didn't shrink, dashboards didn't crack, steering wheels didn't crack. The engines were smooth within reasonable limits for a straight four, didn't use oil, didn't need repairs beyond routine filter changes and such, and maybe a weeping half-moon gasket (where they bored the camshaft journals). They were nicely finished. Toyota used O-rings and grease on practically every electrical connector outside the cabin, so all the connections stayed just like they came from the factory. They used modern fuses that youdidn't have to spin in the mounts every time the weather got a bit humid. Wiring harnesses were neat and tidy and worked well. Main busses were protected with high-capacity fuses. Things looked neat and logical. Bolts were designed so the nuts captured themselves on tightening. Alternators had jackscrews to adjust belt tension. Transmissions were smooth and quiet and didn't break. There were relays to drive horn, headlights, fans etc. etc. Upholstery held up -- my folks bought a Ford Escort at the same time I got a Toyota Tercel for about $2000 more ($4k and $6k roughly). The Escort was evil to drive, seats uncomfortable, couldn't drive at 25-30 mph because it was too fast for second gear and too slow for third. At 60,000 miles everything about the car was tired, the seats were rump-sprung (and my folks weigh a lot less than I do), it was basically junk. At 120,000 miles when I crashed the Tercel it had been recalled for a faulty ignition module, needed a replacement horn because the factory had mounted the weep hole facing up -- probably I shouldn't have pressure-washed the engine so much -- and I had caught the turn signal lever in the hem of my trenchcoat and broken it -- spent many more hours than it was worth repairing it b/c I was darned if I'd pay $72 for the assembly when I needed one $2 plastic part. At 96,000 the fuel sender wore out and started getting erratic. I repaired the wiper on the sender and put it back in service. It had exhaust work. At 120,000 the engine was not using a drop of oil between changes. The interior and exterior were in fine shape, looked like a slightly used car. Struts and shocks were original. I had it repaired and sold it to a friend who drove it well over 200k without problems -- not even changing the timing belt.

I cannot tell a lie -- the carburetor had a slight hesitation accelerating from slow speeds, and so did the very similar (but faster and quieter) 1986 Corolla sedan that I got (for another $2000) to replace it -- my wife made an ill-judged left turn with that one, and it bit the dust at around 140k miles. Looked practically new, seats nice and firm, interior trim all good, major work was new shocks/struts all around. Insurance guy totalled it, but gave us a high allowance. because it was in such nice shape. Our '90 Corolla wagon (with fuel injection) is going strong at ?150k? -- it needs a water pump sometime in the next milennium, and the dark-blue vinyl on top of the dash is cracking from the sun, which really irritates me -- either a bad batch or they cheaped out. And it needs a CV boot. We bought it at 102,000 miles, and 10k later one of the struts loosened in the strut tower. I torqued it back down and it's been fine since. Easy to do since Toyota seals those towers with rubber caps and puts a dollop of grease under the cap. The fuel reserve light isnt' working, problem with the sender. And the only serious problem yet, the exhaust manifold cracked between 2 and 3 cylinder. This wasn't even discovered until the local garage buggered the studs that mount the exhaust downpipe and bellows to the manifold. Replacement manifold about $250. The radiator fins are starting to rot in some places from the road salt (just like the much newer replacement radiator on my Westy) and sooner or later it will need replacing. At 150,000 the rear brakes are getting thin, but the adjusters still work. The fronts of course don't last as long. The single-piston front brake calipers have rubber boots on the sliding bolts so they don't seize up. There's minor rust on rear corners of doors where they get run aground, and on a small area behind and below rear door; probably rocker panel. Both Toyotas had little rubber drains for the sealed running lights, and on both of them the rubber rotted after a few years.

In 210,000 miles the Westy has had water pump around 60k, a new/rebuilt transmission and clutch from VW (in Scotland) at 85,000, then partially rebuilt around 150k, heads resealed at 90,000, AFM replaced with used at 100K or so, then again with used at 205k, and it really needs a new one. New radiator around 90,000. Bearings and rings same time. Left steering boot has rotted. Heater fan has failed twice, not to mention having to have a separate circuit run for the high-speed position. Heater air-box foam (flap seals etc) rotted. Both heater cores pinhole leaks. Full engine rebuild at 175k and more work on heads 198k due to receding valve seats. Rear brake backing plates replaced, fronts antisplash plates have rusted to nothing and need replacing. Horn switch ring wore through (repaired with bronze brazing rod silver-brazed to the original). New brake calipers around 150k. Four clutches and a flywheel between 160k and 198k -- each one developed chatter detectable at 2500 miles and irritating at 10,000. Plenty of seam rust. Bad (overheating) terminals at alternator and fuse/relay panel. New coolant pipes around 100k, replaced rear portions with hose 205k. All four CV joints replaced various times, possibly a couple of them twice. Alternator regulator replaced three times -- two brush wear-outs and one sudden death/no charge. Alternator rebuilt once. One rebult starter at 90k, and the present one is starting to show symptoms. I'm confident the van will go on for a long time yet so long as I keep dropping money in it -- but having owned, lessee -- Sunbeam Alpine Series II, Fiat 128 Special, Saab 96 (V4), Plymouth Horizon -- I got used to carrying a machine shop around with me. Then I got Toyotas and after 3-4 years put the machine shop away because it never got used. Now I have a Vanagon, and guess what I've started carrying again?

david

-- David Beierl - Providence RI USA -- http://pws.prserv.net/synergy/Vanagon/ '84 Westy "Dutiful Passage" '85 GL "Poor Relation"


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