Date: Mon, 20 Jan 2003 19:28:43 -0500
Reply-To: "Carrington, Tom" <TCarrington@RELITECH.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: "Carrington, Tom" <TCarrington@RELITECH.COM>
Subject: Re: CV Joints
Content-Type: text/plain
If you are looking for a how-to procedure on this task, click on the
following link:
http://volksweb.relitech.com/cvjoints.htm
Hope you don't mind the shameless plug!
TomC
> -----Original Message-----
> From: David Robertson [SMTP:dxrobertson@NETSCAPE.NET]
> Sent: Sunday, January 19, 2003 11:37 AM
> To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
> Subject: Re: CV Joints
>
> Removing the joints is as you describe- just removing the six bolts on
> each end of each axle. The outer bolts can be difficult to get to because
> they are inside the rear trailing arm (atleast they are on my 82). A
> ratchet extension is used and as long as you can get the bolts loose; you
> should not have any problems.
>
> A press is not necessary to remove the joint from the axle. They can be
> difficult to remove if tight, but all that is needed is to carefully
> hammer the shaft down through the joint. I use an old socket that is
> smaller than the shaft and place the joint on top of a vice with the axle
> hanging down. then hammer the inside of the shaft down through the joint.
>
> You will need some sort of manual that describes how to dissasemble,
> clean, inspect, and regrease the joints. Or just get new ones. You can
> now even buy the entire axle and joints already assembled as a unit. This
> might be the best option if time is a factor.
>
> Definatly do both joints on the same axle at the same time. It isnt
> absolutly necessary to do both axles at the same time, but a good idea.
>
> Make sure you properly torque the bolts down on reassmbly. Check the
> bolts after you drive it. They WILL come loose if not torqued properly.
>
> The entire process is very messy and can be time consuming. There is
> nothing really difficult about it and it doesnt take any special tools
> other than the right socket allen/star tool (there are 2 types of bolts in
> use, not sure which one you will have). The only problem you may find is
> if the outer bolts are tight and you strip them.
>
>
> dr
>
>
>
> Art Beutler <abeutler@COX.NET> wrote:
>
> >My 86 vanagon has recently developed a noise sounding like metal striking
> >metal originating from the rear somewhere. This rate of the striking
> noise
> >is proportional to speed and it pretty much goes away when the clutch is
> >engaged and sometimes at higher speeds. Having had a look thorough
> previous
> >postings for such noises, it is pretty likely that this is caused by a
> bad
> >CV joint.
> >
> >I have not crawled under the vehicle yet but I have read that I should be
> >able to find the bad CV joint by checking for fore and aft play; I will
> >undertake this task tomorrow. My main question is: how hard are these to
> >change and how does one go about doing it. The shop manual starts with
> the
> >axle shaft already removed - is this a simple matter of loosening the
> bolts
> >on either end and pulling it out or is there more to it? Once the axle
> >shaft is removed, the manual implies that a press is required to remove
> the
> >old CV joints - is this really true? Are there any alternatives? If one
> >gets past this point, are there any tricks to reassembly?
> >
> >Also, if there is no obvious cause of failure (ie damaged boot) of the
> bad
> >CV joint, can the others be expected to last much longer or should I
> change
> >them all?
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Art
> Beutler
> >
>
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