Date: Mon, 20 Jan 2003 09:28:24 -0700
Reply-To: Ben McCafferty <ben@VOLKSCAFE.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Ben McCafferty <ben@VOLKSCAFE.COM>
Subject: Re: CV Joints
In-Reply-To: <200301201615.PTT48607@vmms5.verisignmail.com>
Content-type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Yes, both.
tx,
bmc :)
Ben McCafferty
ben@volkscafe.com
Volks Cafe
1823 Soquel Avenue
Santa Cruz, CA 95062
831-426-1244
http://www.volkscafe.com
> From: 80 Westy Pokey <pokey@vanagon.org>
> Reply-To: pokey@vanagon.org
> Date: Mon, 20 Jan 2003 11:17:08 -0500
> To: Ben McCafferty <ben@VOLKSCAFE.COM>
> Cc: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
> Subject: Re: CV Joints
>
> Ben are you covering both 2WD and syncro? I saw your repack
> kit, it looks interesting.
>
> Thanks,
> Chris
>
> ---- Original message ----
>> Date: Mon, 20 Jan 2003 07:49:13 -0700
>> From: Ben McCafferty <ben@VOLKSCAFE.COM>
>> Subject: Re: CV Joints
>> To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
>>
>> Art et al,
>> I will be posting a very detailed article on CV removal,
> diagnosis,
>> maintenance and replacement in the next day or two on the
> Volks Cafe site.
>> I will post to the list when it goes up. In the meantime, I
> wanted to let
>> you know that CVs aren't as bad as everyone makes them out
> to be--they can
>> be a fun job if you take your time. A couple of things I
> want to mention
>> about the two posts below. If you use liquid wrench, use it
> only in the
>> bolt heads. Do not attempt to get it on the threads. The
> threads will not
>> be frozen, and if you have broken caps on the driveshaft
> flange, you risk
>> getting the solvent into the tranny. Secondly, before you
> can drive the
>> joint off the shaft, there is a circlip on the shaft that
> must be removed.
>>
>> As mentioned, I'll post when the article goes online, and it
> will answer all
>> questions you might have about this topic.
>> tx,
>> bmc :)
>> Ben McCafferty
>> ben@volkscafe.com
>>
>> Volks Cafe
>> 1823 Soquel Avenue
>> Santa Cruz, CA 95062
>> 831-426-1244
>> http://www.volkscafe.com
>>
>>
>>> From: Adrian Bertarelli <adrian.bertarelli@ATTBI.COM>
>>> Reply-To: Adrian Bertarelli <adrian.bertarelli@ATTBI.COM>
>>> Date: Sun, 19 Jan 2003 10:08:08 -0700
>>> To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
>>> Subject: Re: CV Joints
>>>
>>> Taking the rear axles out can be a sticky job. The best
> advise I had
>>> was to make sure you clean the heads of the bolts that are
> in the rear
>>> trailing arm. If you clean them real good and then spray
> some liquid
>>> wrench on their they start coming out a little easier.
> The worst is
>>> breaking or stripping a head of one of those suckers.
> Opens a whole new
>>> world of pain.
>>>
>>> -----Original Message-----
>>> From: Vanagon Mailing List
> [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf
>>> Of David Robertson
>>> Sent: Sunday, January 19, 2003 9:37 AM
>>> To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
>>> Subject: Re: CV Joints
>>>
>>> Removing the joints is as you describe- just removing the
> six bolts on
>>> each end of each axle. The outer bolts can be difficult
> to get to
>>> because they are inside the rear trailing arm (atleast
> they are on my
>>> 82). A ratchet extension is used and as long as you can
> get the bolts
>>> loose; you should not have any problems.
>>>
>>> A press is not necessary to remove the joint from the
> axle. They can be
>>> difficult to remove if tight, but all that is needed is to
> carefully
>>> hammer the shaft down through the joint. I use an old
> socket that is
>>> smaller than the shaft and place the joint on top of a
> vice with the
>>> axle hanging down. then hammer the inside of the shaft
> down through the
>>> joint.
>>>
>>> You will need some sort of manual that describes how to
> dissasemble,
>>> clean, inspect, and regrease the joints. Or just get new
> ones. You can
>>> now even buy the entire axle and joints already assembled
> as a unit.
>>> This might be the best option if time is a factor.
>>>
>>> Definatly do both joints on the same axle at the same
> time. It isnt
>>> absolutly necessary to do both axles at the same time, but
> a good idea.
>>>
>>> Make sure you properly torque the bolts down on
> reassmbly. Check the
>>> bolts after you drive it. They WILL come loose if not
> torqued properly.
>>>
>>> The entire process is very messy and can be time
> consuming. There is
>>> nothing really difficult about it and it doesnt take any
> special tools
>>> other than the right socket allen/star tool (there are 2
> types of bolts
>>> in use, not sure which one you will have). The only
> problem you may
>>> find is if the outer bolts are tight and you strip them.
>>>
>>>
>>> dr
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Art Beutler <abeutler@COX.NET> wrote:
>>>
>>>> My 86 vanagon has recently developed a noise sounding
> like metal
>>> striking
>>>> metal originating from the rear somewhere. This rate of
> the striking
>>> noise
>>>> is proportional to speed and it pretty much goes away
> when the clutch
>>> is
>>>> engaged and sometimes at higher speeds. Having had a
> look thorough
>>> previous
>>>> postings for such noises, it is pretty likely that this
> is caused by a
>>> bad
>>>> CV joint.
>>>>
>>>> I have not crawled under the vehicle yet but I have read
> that I should
>>> be
>>>> able to find the bad CV joint by checking for fore and
> aft play; I will
>>>> undertake this task tomorrow. My main question is: how
> hard are these
>>> to
>>>> change and how does one go about doing it. The shop
> manual starts with
>>> the
>>>> axle shaft already removed - is this a simple matter of
> loosening the
>>> bolts
>>>> on either end and pulling it out or is there more to it?
> Once the axle
>>>> shaft is removed, the manual implies that a press is
> required to remove
>>> the
>>>> old CV joints - is this really true? Are there any
> alternatives? If
>>> one
>>>> gets past this point, are there any tricks to reassembly?
>>>>
>>>> Also, if there is no obvious cause of failure (ie damaged
> boot) of the
>>> bad
>>>> CV joint, can the others be expected to last much longer
> or should I
>>> change
>>>> them all?
>>>>
>>>> Thanks,
>>>>
>>>> Art
>>> Beutler
>>>>
>>>
>>>
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