that is good advise Joel, thanks for taking the time to help out. i have swapped in 2 new temp 2 sensors, no change. even though the aux air regulator is new, i took it back out and doused it with carb cleaner, and it is getting juice. the van behaves no differently with the idle stabilizer bypassed, so i don't think it is the culprit. i even sprayed down the inside of the throttle valve with carb cleaner, hoping maybe something was sticking. no help...im just about out of ideas once i go over all the grounds and poke around this weekend. after that i will have to surrender and take it in to the shop and bend over...thanks again. sw
--- Joel Walker <jwalker17@earthlink.net> wrote: > > once it is a bit warmer, this does not happen. any > > ideas as to what might cause this to happen? > thanks > > that's the key .. your problem is in the > cold-start/cold-idle > part of the system. > and there are three major components ... > - the coolant temp sensor. my favorite suspect. :) > about $20 for > a new one (be sure to get a new rubber o-ring at the > same time). > it's the blue body one, sticking out of the > thermostat. it kinda > sounds like the old one is dead in 'warm mode': make > the computer > think the engine is always warm ... runs ok when the > engine > really is warm, but doesn't give the extra gas > needed when the > engine is cold (like the old choke on the carburetor > buses). > > - the aux air regulator. silverly trumpet > (?)-looking thingie, > with a hose going into each end, and an electrical > connector on > one end, under the hose connection. this thing > allows extra air > for the extra fuel that the coolant temp sensor is > supposed to > tell the computer to give to the engine. if this > thing is stuck > closed (gunked up by fumes from the crankcase over > all those > years), you get no extra air. when the regulator > warms up (the > electrical connector), it shuts off the air. you can > try cleaning > it with generic carb cleaner ...spray it liberally > into the hose > connection ends, let it dry and do it again. three > or four > sprayings usually clean out the gunk. > > - the idle stabilizer module. flat thingie on the > wall over by > the ignition coil. but usually this guy only messes > up the > idling, not the starting. it has two (2) wiring > connectors > plugged into the bottom of it. the test to see if > it's working is > to (engine off) unplug the two and plug them > together (to each > other), then crank the engine. if the idle improves, > the module > is bad. >
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