Date:         Sun, 19 Jan 2003 11:36:53 -0500
Reply-To:     dxrobertson@NETSCAPE.NET
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         David Robertson <dxrobertson@NETSCAPE.NET>
Subject:      Re: CV Joints
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1

Removing the joints is as you describe- just removing the six bolts on each end of each axle.  The outer bolts can be difficult to get to because they are inside the rear trailing arm (atleast they are on my 82).  A ratchet extension is used and as long as you can get the bolts loose; you should not have any problems.

A press is not necessary to remove the joint from the axle.  They can be difficult to remove if tight, but all that is needed is to carefully hammer the shaft down through the joint.  I use an old socket that is smaller than the shaft and place the joint on top of a vice with the axle hanging down.  then hammer the inside of the shaft down through the joint.

You will need some sort of manual that describes how to dissasemble, clean, inspect, and regrease the joints.  Or just get new ones.  You can now even buy the entire axle and joints already assembled as a unit.  This might be the best option if time is a factor.

Definatly do both joints on the same axle at the same time.  It isnt absolutly necessary to do both axles at the same time, but a good idea.

Make sure you properly torque the bolts down on reassmbly.  Check the bolts after you drive it.  They WILL come loose if not torqued properly.

The entire process is very messy and can be time consuming.  There is nothing really difficult about it and it doesnt take any special tools other than the right socket allen/star tool (there are 2 types of bolts in use, not sure which one you will have).  The only problem you may find is if the outer bolts are tight and you strip them.


dr



Art Beutler <abeutler@COX.NET> wrote:

>My 86 vanagon has recently developed a noise sounding like metal striking
>metal originating from the rear somewhere.  This rate of the striking noise
>is proportional to speed and it pretty much goes away when the clutch is
>engaged and sometimes at higher speeds.  Having had a look thorough previous
>postings for such noises, it is pretty likely that this is caused by a bad
>CV joint.
>
>I have not crawled under the vehicle yet but I have read that I should be
>able to find the bad CV joint by checking for fore and aft play; I will
>undertake this task tomorrow.  My main question is: how hard are these to
>change and how does one go about doing it.  The shop manual starts with the
>axle shaft already removed - is this a simple matter of loosening the bolts
>on either end and pulling it out or is there more to it?  Once the axle
>shaft is removed, the manual implies that a press is required to remove the
>old CV joints - is this really true?  Are there any alternatives?  If one
>gets past this point, are there any tricks to reassembly?
>
>Also, if there is no obvious cause of failure (ie damaged boot) of the bad
>CV joint, can the others be expected to last much longer or should I change
>them all?
>
>                                                                Thanks,
>
>                                                                Art Beutler
>

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