Date: Mon, 20 Jan 2003 07:49:13 -0700
Reply-To: Ben McCafferty <ben@VOLKSCAFE.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Ben McCafferty <ben@VOLKSCAFE.COM>
Subject: Re: CV Joints
In-Reply-To: <000001c2bfdd$58ed75b0$aa74fd0c@c848865a>
Content-type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Art et al,
I will be posting a very detailed article on CV removal, diagnosis,
maintenance and replacement in the next day or two on the Volks Cafe site.
I will post to the list when it goes up. In the meantime, I wanted to let
you know that CVs aren't as bad as everyone makes them out to be--they can
be a fun job if you take your time. A couple of things I want to mention
about the two posts below. If you use liquid wrench, use it only in the
bolt heads. Do not attempt to get it on the threads. The threads will not
be frozen, and if you have broken caps on the driveshaft flange, you risk
getting the solvent into the tranny. Secondly, before you can drive the
joint off the shaft, there is a circlip on the shaft that must be removed.
As mentioned, I'll post when the article goes online, and it will answer all
questions you might have about this topic.
tx,
bmc :)
Ben McCafferty
ben@volkscafe.com
Volks Cafe
1823 Soquel Avenue
Santa Cruz, CA 95062
831-426-1244
http://www.volkscafe.com
> From: Adrian Bertarelli <adrian.bertarelli@ATTBI.COM>
> Reply-To: Adrian Bertarelli <adrian.bertarelli@ATTBI.COM>
> Date: Sun, 19 Jan 2003 10:08:08 -0700
> To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
> Subject: Re: CV Joints
>
> Taking the rear axles out can be a sticky job. The best advise I had
> was to make sure you clean the heads of the bolts that are in the rear
> trailing arm. If you clean them real good and then spray some liquid
> wrench on their they start coming out a little easier. The worst is
> breaking or stripping a head of one of those suckers. Opens a whole new
> world of pain.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf
> Of David Robertson
> Sent: Sunday, January 19, 2003 9:37 AM
> To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
> Subject: Re: CV Joints
>
> Removing the joints is as you describe- just removing the six bolts on
> each end of each axle. The outer bolts can be difficult to get to
> because they are inside the rear trailing arm (atleast they are on my
> 82). A ratchet extension is used and as long as you can get the bolts
> loose; you should not have any problems.
>
> A press is not necessary to remove the joint from the axle. They can be
> difficult to remove if tight, but all that is needed is to carefully
> hammer the shaft down through the joint. I use an old socket that is
> smaller than the shaft and place the joint on top of a vice with the
> axle hanging down. then hammer the inside of the shaft down through the
> joint.
>
> You will need some sort of manual that describes how to dissasemble,
> clean, inspect, and regrease the joints. Or just get new ones. You can
> now even buy the entire axle and joints already assembled as a unit.
> This might be the best option if time is a factor.
>
> Definatly do both joints on the same axle at the same time. It isnt
> absolutly necessary to do both axles at the same time, but a good idea.
>
> Make sure you properly torque the bolts down on reassmbly. Check the
> bolts after you drive it. They WILL come loose if not torqued properly.
>
> The entire process is very messy and can be time consuming. There is
> nothing really difficult about it and it doesnt take any special tools
> other than the right socket allen/star tool (there are 2 types of bolts
> in use, not sure which one you will have). The only problem you may
> find is if the outer bolts are tight and you strip them.
>
>
> dr
>
>
>
> Art Beutler <abeutler@COX.NET> wrote:
>
>> My 86 vanagon has recently developed a noise sounding like metal
> striking
>> metal originating from the rear somewhere. This rate of the striking
> noise
>> is proportional to speed and it pretty much goes away when the clutch
> is
>> engaged and sometimes at higher speeds. Having had a look thorough
> previous
>> postings for such noises, it is pretty likely that this is caused by a
> bad
>> CV joint.
>>
>> I have not crawled under the vehicle yet but I have read that I should
> be
>> able to find the bad CV joint by checking for fore and aft play; I will
>> undertake this task tomorrow. My main question is: how hard are these
> to
>> change and how does one go about doing it. The shop manual starts with
> the
>> axle shaft already removed - is this a simple matter of loosening the
> bolts
>> on either end and pulling it out or is there more to it? Once the axle
>> shaft is removed, the manual implies that a press is required to remove
> the
>> old CV joints - is this really true? Are there any alternatives? If
> one
>> gets past this point, are there any tricks to reassembly?
>>
>> Also, if there is no obvious cause of failure (ie damaged boot) of the
> bad
>> CV joint, can the others be expected to last much longer or should I
> change
>> them all?
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Art
> Beutler
>>
>
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