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Date:         Thu, 23 Jan 2003 09:22:24 -0500
Reply-To:     David Beierl <dbeierl@ATTGLOBAL.NET>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         David Beierl <dbeierl@ATTGLOBAL.NET>
Subject:      Re: Diagnosing Idle stabilizer -- very FISH Fishy.
Comments: To: Todd Last <Rubatoguy@mindspring.com>,
          Robert Steven Fish <fish@salzburg.co.at>, RAlanen@aol.com
In-Reply-To:  <3E2FA5F4.6080306@mindspring.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed

At 03:21 AM 1/23/2003, Todd Last wrote: >I wonder if there is a beefier power transistor that you could replace the >BD438 with that would not be so prone to burning up? > >http://www.unofficialbmw.com/repair_faqs/idle.html

The BD912/NTE332 is such a device, recommended by someone. However this is already a four-amp device carrying half an amp -- reading the above link indicates that the failure suggested lack of heat-sinking (none of these power transistors can carry anywhere near their ratings without external heatsinking -- this one expects to be bolted to some chunk of aluminum or such; that's what the hole is for), and/or lack of mechanical support for the solder joints. The two effects may well be synergistic -- I'd be inclined to carefully add an aluminum/copper/brass strip for heatsink, bearing in mind that it will be electrically live and must be protected from contact with other components -- and goop some electrical-grade (no acetic smell when curing) RTV compound around the pins after making sure they are properly soldered. The strip would not have to be huge to make a considerable difference -- doubling the existing surface area should help a lot.

It might simplify things to bring out an external socket for transistor and heatsink, or just a set of flying leads. If the latter, make sure leads are wrapped at least a turn-and-a-half around the transistor leads before soldering them -- solder cannot make a good mechanical joint, only provide electrical contact to an existing joint. Also it would need to be protected from environment -- small metal box siliconed to existing unit might work, box itself acting as heat sink. If necessary to electrically isolate it, insulating washers are available (mica washer with ZnO heat-sink paste, or special heat-conductive heat-sink washer -- both available for various package types but may be hard to get in onesies...

Note that the BMW fella also had a cracked trace (the copper foil "wire" on a PCB) at the transistor (prolly hard to see without a microscope). This might have been a result of local board heating -- apparently the BMW unit had the device mounted horizontally on the PCB instead of standing clear as it does in the VW one.

david

-- David Beierl - Providence RI USA -- http://pws.prserv.net/synergy/Vanagon/ '84 Westy "Dutiful Passage" '85 GL "Poor Relation"


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