Date: Wed, 22 Jan 2003 09:42:02 -0500
Reply-To: David Beierl <dbeierl@ATTGLOBAL.NET>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: David Beierl <dbeierl@ATTGLOBAL.NET>
Subject: Re: front heater problems 85'
In-Reply-To: <20030122140307.95707.qmail@web80208.mail.yahoo.com>
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At 09:03 AM 1/22/2003, Tracy Bonin wrote:
>Hi all,
>
>my front heater is making some terrible noises. A few weeks ago, when I
>turned it on it would make just this loud squeak/squeal noise. It gets
>louder the faster the setting I put it on.
Dry bearings...
> Now though, it not only is making that noise, but it is also making this
> terrible grumbling/ rumbling noise.
...that wore enough that it's chattering -- rolling around the inside of
the bearing instead of rotating in it. Probably want to write that motor
off at this point.
> Again it gets worse the faster the setting I put it on. If I really work
> it, and keep turning it on and off sometimes I can get it to work without
> the noise, but it only lasts a few seconds, then the noises will start
> once again. Also, maybe it's just me, but it doesn't feel as if it's
> blowing as much air as it used to last year.
No, it wouldn't -- chattering uses tremendous amount of power as there are
big inertial forces involved.
>(What sux is that it's really cold in CT right now. (Tonight soppossed to
>get to -2) And the heat to suck out at a time like this really blows....)
Well, at least you get good ram-air, unlike our Toyota where the car speed
hardly affects what comes out the heater.
>At first, when it was just squeaking, I thought that if I could get
>somewhat in there, and squirt some WD40 in the blower then that would take
>care of it.
> But with the grumbling now I dunno what to do. Last night I peaked at
> Haynes manuals description of how to get in there, and it looks like such
> a pain. The whole dash has to come out.
Cheer up, you couldn't have gotten in there anyway -- aside from being
enclosed in the heater box, one end of the motor is totally buried in the
blower housing and blower wheel.
>Does anyone know what this could be? And does anyone know any easy routes
>to attempt to get to it?
A) don't bother to drill out the shear bolts on the steering column,
Vise-grips (sharp ones) work fine on them
B) Dunno Haynes, but Bentley forgets to mention that you have to pull out
the defroster vents at top of dash before it will come out.
C) Use a long #3 Phillips driver on the screws holding the heater box in
the vehicle. Use penetrating oil (clean off plastic after), use *SERIOUS*
pressure on the screwdriver to keep from camming-out and ruining the
screws, and pray that water leaks haven't run down and frozen them
solid. You can't heat them b/c the box is plastic. If you bugger the
heads, you're in for a seriously nasty job -- much better if you twist them
off, no picnic but at least you can get in there to work (same with little
#2 Phillips screws at top of dash -- once dash is out remains of screw easy
to get to with visegrips from below). Don't worry about dropping washers,
you'll find them behind the carpet in front.
D) When you put them back, use M6 hex bolts so you can get a proper wrench
on them later -- and don't tighten too much or you'll crack the
plastic. Lots of Never-Seez is a real good idea. Similar suggestion for
screws at top, use ones with hex head so can get a nut driver on them.
E) With '85 you probably have clips holding heater box together. If not,
you have to cut the plastic welds as instructed, and buy eleven clips to
put it back together with.
F) BIG help to have two people to actually move the dash out and back
in. The rest can do with one though two is nice.
G) You went to all that work, think about what else the heater box may need
-- door seals etc. And check the two free-swinging flaps inside -- if
they've fallen out or don't swing freely *in operating position i.e.
hanging down* then you will get little effect from the fan -- but ram air
will still be fine.
H) You don't have to open the cooling system, can remove the core by
opening the box -- at least if you have clips. Dunno if you still can if
you have to cut the box open.
G) At least one screw that looks like it's holding the blower onto top of
box is also holding box together.
H) Take a look at pedals, particularly clutch linkage, while in there. I
hear they tend to wear out the clutch activating clevis, and you can't get
there with the dash on.
I) When reassembling steering column, make sure the rubber doughnut linkage
at bottom is fully engaged. Note the clearance specs at top btw wheel and
housing.
J) Make up your mind whether to a) replace shear bolts from dealer at close
to $10 each and install per spec; b) replace original shear(ed) bolts using
vise-grips; c) replace with standard M8 bolts. There is disagreement on
the list as to whether these bolts have a safety function in collision,
beyond not dropping out on the floor. I maintain that there is no such,
the bolts are a feeble attempt at making it harder for a thief to drop the
column so as to remove the ign. lock. Collapse dynamics in collision are
taken care of by the flimsy and deliberately pre-folded upper support
struts and the crush characteristics of the dash itself. You will no doubt
hear from proponents of the other position.
K) Keep track of the wires. Browns are ground and blue/brown are panel
lighting. If lighter socket is loose, much easier to deal with when dash
is out. Be sure to fully test blower and heater controls after mounting
box and before putting dash back on...
cheers,
david
>thanx in advance,
>
>have fun,
>
>Tracy
>
>85' GL "Ripple"
--
David Beierl - Providence RI USA -- http://pws.prserv.net/synergy/Vanagon/
'84 Westy "Dutiful Passage"
'85 GL "Poor Relation"
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