Date: Mon, 3 Feb 2003 19:30:40 -0500
Reply-To: David Beierl <dbeierl@ATTGLOBAL.NET>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: David Beierl <dbeierl@ATTGLOBAL.NET>
Subject: Re: Dash removal Instruction for all of you ready to fix your
heater
In-Reply-To: <20030111223814.87867.qmail@web41005.mail.yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"; format=flowed
Hm, didn't see this when it came by...I have at least one comment, which is
that the big M6 screws on the side of the dash and holding the heater box
in are Phillips #3 and not #2, and if you use a #2 driver you're gonna most
likely mess them up. Not too terrible on the exposed ones, but a big
problem with the buried ones on the heater box. What I've actually done is
use the longest #3 I could get, and clamp one of the special Vise-grips
made for hex nuts on the plastic handle to turn it with, then lean into the
end with as much body weight as I can manage to keep the driver from
camming out. With that combination I could get enough force in there to
either remove the screw or twist the head off -- not as good obviously but
far better than buggering the head of the screw.
If I notice anything else I'll interleave it...
d
At 05:38 PM 1/11/2003, Joel Cort wrote:
>I just wrote up some instruction for someone wanting to work on their
>heater unit.
>But here is my original note from the SYNCRO list:
>Joel Cort in Rochester Ny.
>I also want to thank David Bierl who has been a great resource and wealth
>of information on how to do this for me. He even shipped out FedEx those
>darn 11 clips to me.
I'm such a nice guy ;-)
>This is a fairly easy job as far as Vanagons are concerned but be ready to
>spend the weekend.
>
>
>
>1) Instrument cluster removal: Pull the instrument panel off and
>remove all the wiring. There are 4 Phillips #2 screws holding the plastic
>tab of the instrument cluster. Be careful that these tabs are not too
>brittle with the cold. They will break and shatter.
And they're brittle anyway, the plastic VW used hasn't aged very well.
>Wiggle you hand behind the spedo and unclip the spedo cable. Just squeeze
>the connector and it will come out. Next pull out the switches by pressing
>the tabs to release them from the cluster. The cluster should lift out
>and remove the big wire connector plug. This will provide you room to get
>under the dash board. Put the cluster in a safe place that you will not
>sit or lay other components on.
>
>2) Vent lever removal: Release all the vent levers. You will be able
>to see the mounting nut after the instrument panel is removed. You may
>have to remove the front and rear heater fan switches as well. And any
>auxiliary wiring on the dash.
Warm the plastic levers, and grab them with pliers behind the knob. The
knob itself is weakly attached. Restrain the possible travel as they come
out, as they like to grab the faceplate and break it as they go by.
>3) Radio: Remove the radio you are on your own here
>
>4) Glove box: Remove the glove box press the retaining tabs and
>lower the box to the floor board. Slide it off its pivot. Be careful not
>to press the retaining tabs to much or too hard, they could be brittle and
>break.
>
>5 optional) Syncro dash plate: Remove the Syncro dash plate and Diff
>lock switch(es).
>
>6) Steering column: Remove the two bolts holding the steering column
>to the dash frame. These are safety bolts without a head because it is
>meant to snap off when the bolts are torque at the factory. I used a pair
>of vise grips and was able to turn these bolts loose. I replaced them with
>normal bolts. I think they are a thread of 8x1.25 mm and 25 cm long. The
>steering column will drop to the driver's seat and that is ok and out of
>the way.
Pretty sure the bolts aren't ten inches long... <g> -- nice fresh
Vise-grips with sharp teeth will get these guys easily, but you have to get
all the way down to the surface because the heads are meant to be hard to
grip. But they left the barest suggestion of a flat at the bottom, and the
metal isn't hard.
>7) Dashboard attachment: Unbolt the dashboard
>
>a. 6 or 8 big Philips head below the windshield
#2, no problem except that the angle of the screws intersects the
windshield and fouls the screwdriver. If they're rusted in you can twist
them off and remove the remainder from below later. Recommend replacing
with hex-head screws so you can get a socket or nutdriver on them later.
>b. 4 big bolts along the door jams. You will need to be able to open
>the doors wide enough to get your screwdriver/bolt driver in there
Big #3 Phillips, size M6.
>8) Dash removal: Ok the Dash should be loose and ready to pull off.
Bentley forgets to tell you that the defrost vents on the top need to be
removed before the dash will come out. Notice how they go, they're
directional and asymmetric.
>a. Lift it up slowly and check what else is still wired and
>connected, like the cig lighter or AC switches, You will have to unplug all.
>
>b. I did it by myself but with an extra person it sure is easier to
>lift and pull the dash out one side or the other.
Darn straight. First time I did this was by myself, and by the time I had
the dash actually out on the ground I was as close to crying from
frustration as I can remember.
>9) Review the heater unit: With the dash out you can now see the
>heater unit shell.
>
>a. Fastening clips: Check to see if there are black metallic clips
>(11 of them) snapping the upper half of this heater together. This is an
>indication that your heater has been pull out and separated once before
>for service. If there are no clips then this is the first time this
>heater unit is being serviced. There is a smooth factory mold gluing the
>upper and lower half of the heater unit sealed from the factory. You will
>have to run a blade or knife along this edge to separate the two
>halves. Make sure that you order the 11 clips available only at the VW
>dealers. It will be tough on a Sunday afternoon to find these at
>NAPA. They cost about $2 or so. I can get you the right part number if
>you wish.
>
>b. Heater unit support: Ok the heater unit is held in place by 4 long
>Philips screws, 2 inside the cabin and 2 from outside by the headlights.
This is either a Syncro thing, or someone's been in before you, or they
changed the arrangements somewhere along the line. The '84 and '85s I've
seen have all four screws on the inside, and not all that long -- identical
to the ones on the door pillars I think.
> You will have to remove the front upper grill to get to these. Once you
> remove the grill you will see against the firewall just the Phillips head
> holding a felt or soft washer. These should be the upper supporting
> screws for the heater unit. They may be rusted to where you cannot get
> your screwdriver into it. Just work it and don't strip it or rush this
> part. On the inside the screws should be easier. You may need a long
> Phillips #2 screwdriver.
#3...
>c. Coolant hose removal: You will also need remove the coolant hoses
>coming up from the bell housing. Be neat and try to capture any coolant
>drips before they get to the rug. I used lots of newspaper rags and paper
>towels. Not too much came out when I did this, but the heater core is
>full of coolant so when you take the actual heater unit out be aware that
>some coolant may drip. I put a couple of corks in the pipes to keep them
>as sealed as I could.
>
>10) Removal out of the van: Ok the disassembly is complete you are ready
>to take the heater unit out of the van for the service. Again plug the
>coolant pipes and hoses to not loose too much coolant and to not let it
>drip in the van.
If the box is clipped together you can disassemble it in place and swing
the core out of the way without opening the cooling system. Dunno if you
can with the welded box.
>11) Servicing the Heater Unit:
>
>a. Separate the two halves: with the heater unit in your work area
>you can now separate the shells and get to the fan motor. See the seam
>between the two shell and try to run a knife or a blade along that
>seam. Be patient and work it slowly to not damage anything and yourself.
>Refer to the Bentley instructions if need be. Again make sure that you
>have the VW engineered clips to buckle these two halves once you are ready
>to re install.
>
>b. Replace the Heater Fan: With the two halves split you can now
>service the fan motor.
Cut the sealing foam and carefully release the latches, halves will come apart.
> I recall that it easily comes out. You will probably have to remove
> the squirrel cages from you old motor and insert them on the new motor.
Getting the blower wheel off can be a problem. It's a tight press fit on
the shaft and has tobe driven off. If the shaft by evil luck has gotten
rusty inside the blower hub, probably will wreck the motor doing it, can
also be a problem if the motor is rusty inside the plastic sleeve where it
sits in the housing. Basically, you have to first remove any metal spring
clips holding the motor into the housing. Newer ones have a different
arrangement -- plastic catches in the housing maybe? which may be quite a
nuisance.
First, support the housing on top of a vise so that the jaws catch the
edges of the plastic motor tube, but let the motor itself pass between
them. This is critical, and a nuisance. With a large hammer (2-3# would
be good) gently tap the end of the blower and start the motor sliding out
of the tube. If plastic tabs have to be held back until the edge clears,
this is when it has to happen. You are driving directly against the motor
internals -- if the motor is too tight in the tube or if the catches aren't
properly released, or if the motor catches on a vise jaw, you will drive
the innards out the end.
Drive carefully until the blower bottoms out on the housing half. Now take
as large a pin punch as will comfortably fit and continue gently driving
the shaft out of the blower wheel. Watch carefully, because at some point
the motor is going to drop out of the housing, and if it falls to the floor
will likely be wrecked.
> It may take a very small allen wrench for that… don't know? Forgot?
No, just friction.
>Mark the orientation of all the parts to fit back in place properly and in
>the right direction. Refit the new fan motor and test it out with a 12
>volt source. Make sure it works and spins in the correct direction.
Don't disturb any little metal balancing clips on the blower wheel, and be
sure to test the fully assembled blower for vibration (ask me how I
know...) before nailing it all back into the car. Rotation direction
should be correct as the motor has one male and one female terminal. Make
sure the blower wheel clears both sides of the housing while you're still
in position to adjust it -- very much best if you note the depth before
removing it. As I recall the end of the shaft is pretty much flush with
the end of the blower wheel.
>c. Wiring the Heater Fan: The wires are connected/soldered to the
>big green resistor. This is what provides the 3 fan speeds. You will also
>note the three or four wires coming from the switch to the big
>resistor. Do you soldering tricks and remember where the yellow, brown,
>black wires go. If the big green resistor is cracked or blackened it may
>need to be replaced as well. Test it out on all three speeds
>
>d. Heater core servicing: You may choose to service other components
>of the heater unit such as the heater radiator core of the vent
>flaps. You can check the heater core for any leakage, which you could
>have smelled as sweet maple syrup prior to taking this job on. You can
>remove the heater core and flush it out or look for any signs of
>leaks. In which case it would be very very wise to change the heater core
>as well since you have it all out and can do it right.
>
>e. Vent Flaps Servicing: While you are at it, check the foam seals
>around all the vents and flaps. These are usually burned out and may need
>to be replaced. I made all the replacement foam from foam pieces that I
>had laying around from old packaging. Go to a hardware store and check
>out the foam material in the heating and air conditioning section. They
>usually will have some material that will work. There are no part number
>from VW so you will have to custom make this. The important flaps to
>check are the lower flaps. The rubber seal here is what stops warm air
>from coming into the cab in the summer time.
Unfortunately there's another set of flaps inside the box -- free-swinging
plastic doors that swing open from ram air and slam shut when the blower is
pushing harder than any ram air. If these stick or fall out, the blower
will happily amuse itself blowing air from input to output back to input
but not into the cabin. But the ram air will still be good. It's not
enough that these flaps are still there, they also have to swing freely
when in operating position, which is hanging by stub shafts on their ends
from a couple of little plastic snap-in ears molded into the
box. Unfortunately they tend to wear both the ears and the shafts
triangular, and stop flapping freely. I've fixed a couple by making new
supports of brads or wire and melting them into the case -- I wish I had
photos of the last one as I thought it rather clever, but I don't. Next
time. The foam covering one side of these flaps will prolly be rotten, but
it's not actually important. Just rub it off so the surface is even. It
will make a little more noise when it shuts, and there will be a tiny
internal leak, but not to matter.
>12) Reinstallation: OK you are done. I'm done, I cant think of anything
>else at the moment. Reassemble the two halves using the 11 clips. Refit
>the heater unit in the van, refit the coolant hoses on the heater core.
>Check the vent cabling to ensure that all works well inside the box. Refit
>and remount everything in reverse order and you should be golden
>13) Fill the coolant and bleed the circuit as described on the list or
>in Bentley. Flush the air out and you are set.
>
>
> Good Luck
>
>
>Joel Cort
>
>89 Syncro Westy "CinnabarVan"
>
>Rochester NY.
>
>LiMBO representative for the Western New York region.
david
--
David Beierl -- dbeierl@attglobal.net
