Date: Sun, 2 Feb 2003 13:26:57 -0600
Reply-To: Stan Wilder <wilden1@JUNO.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Stan Wilder <wilden1@JUNO.COM>
Subject: Re: Adjusting Valves 78 Air Cooled
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Thanks for your reply Bob.
This is a second owner 78 Westy with what is supposed the be the original
engine with 80K on it.
I'm judging it to be a good engine based on compression resistance when I
turn the engine fan with my breaker / notched socket tool.
It had slight cold lifter noise and I made a mental note of slight
clearance on the valve stem / rocker before I started adjusting.
I had expected hydraulics so I set them at 1 turn down.
After completing this the engine had no compression and of course
wouldn't start.
I went back to .006 on all valves as specified in Tom Wilson's book and
the engine cranked right up but has the tappet noise (same as before I
started, not better not worse). After a 15 minute run it silenced some
but I just felt like it still needed a little tweaking.
I'm right with you that zero lash could probably burn the exhaust valves
and render the intakes leaking.
The van owner didn't express any thoughts on the lifter noise, just told
me to do a tune up and preventive maintenance as I saw fit but
specifically mentioned adjusting the valves.
I must admit the 1600 engine in this 66 Splittie of mine settled right
down with .008 on the exhaust and .006 on the intakes and the tappet
noise is almost non existent. I was hoping for the same results on this
1800 ???
Type IV engine.
I've got the van here for another week so I'll have some unhurried time
to run through the procedure again.
It is funny how a tight .006 vs a loose .006 on the feeler can make such
a difference ........... you know how the adjusting screws want to walk a
little when you cinch them down. A .006 on a loose adjusting screw turns
out to be more when the lock nut is cinched up properly.
Thanks again Bob.
I'm in the process of separating the engine from the tranny on my 66
Splittie.
My tenant burned one of my buildings yesterday. (My bread and butter
income)
94 Year old Dad is in the hospital with pneumonia.
The dog went into heat and has become very affectionate and off her feed.
I somehow feel that I'm not going to be very humorous this upcoming week.
Stan Wilder
83 Air Cooled Westfalia
On Sun, 2 Feb 2003 11:59:13 -0500 Robert Donalds <bostneng@FCL-US.NET>
writes:
> The adjustment of the rockers with either hydraulic or solids lifters
> using a feeler gauge to set the lash is not always the best way to
> wind up with a silent valve train. The valve stem wear and shape of
> the adjuster can create allot more lash than the thickness of the
> feeler gauge. I don't think 0 lash cold is the way to go in either
> application as tempting as the idea has been at times. I do think
> that adjusting the rockers after the engine has been run hot but is
> cold enough to not burn the heck out of yourself is an option and
> one I have used for years. The solid lifter valve train can gain
> clearance as it warns up and the hydraulic can loose clearance. We
> could argue the reasons all day and some might even say the opposite
> happens. When you have a noisy valve with solid lifters try to find
> it when the engine is warm and close down the clearance a little and
> then run it. I would then check it cold to see if it has clearance
> cold. I determine that a valve is closed all the way if I can spin
> the push rod. I adjusted the new 2.1 engine in my wife's van last
> week to 0 warm (hot) after it was cool enough to touch each rocker
> had just a litlle lash and I spin the push rod when the ajuster nut
> is tight. I will have to keep an eye on it because I want to prevent
> any preloading the hydraulic lifters might develop
> Stan be careful of aftermarket solid lifters most are not
> compatatable with OEM cams and they will wear the lobe out in as
> little as 2000 miles
> Bob Donalds
> http://www.bostonengine.com
> all rights reserved
>
>
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