David; Here is how I did it. If memory serves me I bought everything at PEP BOYS, which was two metric-to-standard converters and a remote oil pressure gauge installation kit. The kind with ten feet of tiny flexible hose. This allowed me to install the senders on the wall near the coil. I attached the senders with a "C" clamp (like the ones used to attach TV antennas to poles). There were already two predrilled holes there that lined up perfectly. I believe there is a picture on my web page. Latter on I added a common plumbing tee for the original sender. The pressure switch in the sender closes at a higher pressure so I was getting worrysome allarms. Now the extra pressure switch is hooked up to an LED next to the gauges as a sort of early warning device. The gauges reside in the plastic console just behind and above the shift boot.

Good Luck and Drive Safely Ken Lewis 86 Crewcab, 60 356 T-5 http://Neksiwel.20m.com/

On Thu, 13 Feb 2003 20:42:09 -0500 (EST) David Brodbeck <gull@cyberspace.org> writes: > On Thu, 13 Feb 2003 kdlewis@juno.com wrote: > > > You are probably right, as long as you never have to undo it. > What > > happens then? Like after a rebuild. At the best you have a > cross-thread > > situation, at the worst threads fall out (or in). I plan on > keeping my > > truck a long time. I have spent a lot of money and time doing > things > > correctly. To intentionally screw a tapered, standard pipe thread > into a > > straight metric hole goes against my grain. > > In that case, can you suggest a source for M10 tees and nipples, or > at > least M10 to 1/8NPT adapters? I can't find them *anywhere*. > > _ _ > __ _ _ _| | | | David M. Brodbeck (N8SRE) > Ypsilanti, MI > / _` | | | | | | > +----------------------------------------------------- > | (_| | |_| | | | @ cyberspace.org > \__, |\__,_|_|_| "Everything is linear if plotted log-log with a > fat > |___/ magic marker." -- Mar's Law > > >