Date: Thu, 13 Feb 2003 11:54:45 -0500
Reply-To: Derek Drew <derekdrew@RCN.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Derek Drew <derekdrew@RCN.COM>
Subject: Re: A day with Waxoyl(and no Pompadore to use the leftovers on)
In-Reply-To: <5.2.0.9.0.20030213024559.00aab200@pop.ipa.net>
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<font size=3>I just spent about three hours applying it because that is
all the time I had. <br><br>
I used a disposable (cheap) chemical suit I bought at
<a href="http://www.mcmaster.com/" eudora="autourl">www.mcmaster.com</a>
plus headcovering and resperator. <br><br>
The job was incredibly messy and I had stored the waxoyl I was using for about 10 years so I had to warm it and thin it a few times and so had more clogs than I had wished for. <br><br>
Essential to use chemical resistant rubber gloves. <br><br>
The stuff is NASTY I felt, and continue to feel, every time I go under there to do work under the van. <br><br>
I really like that it is goopy so it will not crack with age. <br><br>
But then again, it is not an undercarriage formula -- it is intended primarily for inner panels and recessed places because otherwise it is said to wash off. <br><br>
I did not like how much it softened up the existing rustproofing that was already on the van because it made it easy to swipe both off by merely brushing an arm on them. <br><br>
But perhaps it is to the best to keepl the original rustproofing supple. <br><br>
Waxoyl does have an exterior underbody formula too but it is not generally available -- at least not that I quickly found -- here in the USA. Moreover, British rustproofing tests established that their underbody formula underperforms compared to Waxoyl's competitors. One of the best surfaces that was discovered in these tests was something called Hammerite so I would like to track down a source of Hammerite underbody rustproofing but have not yet. If anyone knows anything about this stuff like to hear. <br><br>
Bondo and Permatex were also selling rustproofing kits which ommitted any mention of "rubberized." That is good. So I used these kits too and considered them to be slightly more convenient than the Waxoyl. But possibly that is because I was using 10 year old waxoyl and it is hard to keep it warm enough in the middle of the winter. <br><br>
I had my van treated by Ziebart when it had less than 100 miles on it. Interestingly, all the places that received this Ziebart treatment are today free of rust, and all the places that they missed, noteably above the transmission, look like a horror show. Accordingly, I am very much a fan of these rustproofing treatments. <br><br>
Among the surprises was a new grease I tried which is said to be something like "Marine Grease; Won't Wash Off; Unaffected by Salt; Use In Salt Water Environments; Insoluable" <br><br>
This Marine Grease after several trips around in horrible salty weather remains exactly where I put it, covering nuts and bolt heads, and does not seem to have been affected by the wind and water whatsoever. I gained the impression that it would stay in place for another 10 years without moving. It also said something about being aluminized or containing aluminum, which I did not really like, not knowing if there was a possibility therefore of some galvanic corrosion with the grease. But for now, and pending further advice to the contrary, I am a big fan. <br><br>
I used to use Permatex's Neverseize grease on all my nuts and bolts, but more and more I have been using Loctite weak formula, blue middle strength formula, and red high strength formula, instead as a corrosion reducing agent instead. I did notice that the Permatex Nevercease would not stay on the outside of the nuts and bolts the way the Marine salt water grease would. The Permatex formula grease, liberally applied to the rear trailing arm forward outer bolts, was NOT ENOUGH to keep them from rusting into place over a period of about seven years. These bolts had to be sawed off, accordingly, something I used to do on other vans. So I am very disturbed about these forward outer rear trailing arms bolts becoming unable to be loosened or removed in so sort of a time in all the vans I have seen. If you want to have fun some afternoon, go try to loosen them and I guess that in less than 5% of the cases will they actually loosen properly. You cannot properly align the rear wheels unless you get them loose. Bummer. <br><br>
I was thinking of wrapping my bolts in zinc foil and reinstalling them or something cause the Permatex Neverseize does not work. Grrrr....<br><br>
At 03:03 AM 2/13/2003 -0600, you wrote:<br>
<blockquote type=cite class=cite cite>Listees: I have seen several references to Waxoyl, the original British<br>
undercoating for vehicles. Well, a web search found Proper MG, an MG parts<br>
guru similar to Ken and Ron etal, selling a pump kit with 2.5 litres of the<br>
waxy stuff and a 2.5 litre refill and an aerosol can for the hard to hit<br>
spots. Total bill was about $100.<br><br>
Cleaned the undercarriage as best I could and jacked the van up. The pump<br>
sprayer was okay and the nozzle only clogged once. I shot the stuff on the<br>
van in about 55 degree weather, and that could've been part of the<br>
problem. Tried real hard to keep the Waxoyl warm so it would flow out of<br>
the sprayer easier, but insulating a throwaway can wasn't in the<br>
cards. Warming the can in a sink full of hot water did wonders for the<br>
product.<br><br>
Well ,,,,a couple hours later, we finished up and now the big trip up north<br>
to the salt o rama The Waxoyl has a huge waxy petro smell some will find<br>
objectionable and although I pumped all most all of the gallon plus I<br>
bought, keeping the waxy stuff in liquid state is critical to a smooth<br>
application process.<br><br>
<br>
You never know when you've done too much, but 5 litres of this stuff got<br>
most of the metal areas. Since I'm heading to IA and the salt, I figured<br>
I'd at least try to keep my 90 GL rust free for a while longer anyway.<br><br>
I always wondered if that truck bed liner stuff would make a good undercoating?<br><br>
DM&FS</blockquote>
<x-sigsep><p></x-sigsep>
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