Date: Wed, 19 Feb 2003 13:46:34 -0800
Reply-To: fortinoj@SPEAKEASY.NET
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Joseph Fortino <fortinoj@SPEAKEASY.NET>
Subject: Re: rear wheel wobble
Content-Type: text/plain
in deed think he should check the lug nuts and the axle nut,is the main pin still threw the nut? also what does the cv joint look like? does it make noise having someone outside as you drive slow helps.
Joe
On 19 Feb 2003, Ben McCafferty wrote:
> Is anyone beside me thinking he should check
> the torque on the lug nuts as well as the
> crown nut to see if things are loose? tx, bmc
> :) Ben McCafferty ben@volkscafe.com
>
> Volks Cafe 1823 Soquel Avenue Santa Cruz, CA
> 95062 831-426-1244 http://volkscafe.com
>
>
> > From: Tracy Bonin <icculus22420@YAHOO.COM>
> > Reply-To: Tracy Bonin
> > <icculus22420@YAHOO.COM> Date: Wed, 19 Feb
> > 2003 12:58:33 -0800 To:
> > vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM Subject: Re: rear
> > wheel wobble
> >
> > Well, actually from what I learned in class
> > last week ( I am going to Baran Institute of
> > Tech for Automotive Technology :-) ) ( I am
> > in chassis portion right now ) , is that the
> > races aren't sealed to the cage that the
> > bearings go into. The race is within the
> > wheel, the cage is within that, the bearings
> > are within the cage. The bearing lube is
> > between / inside the cage with the bearings.
> > It has the ability to seep out, and get
> > nasty enough to where as a change in grease
> > can help emensly, if not fix the problem if
> > the bearing itself isn't damaged. To re-pack
> > a wheel bearing, put a glob of the bearing
> > grease in the palm of your hand and hold the
> > bearing with the other. Hold a specific spot
> > on the bearing (so theres a space between
> > for the goop to get through), and scrap away
> > at the glob until the old nasty crap comes
> > out of the top. Do this around the whole
> > bearing. This is repacking. You can also buy
> > a bearing repacker, which will do the work
> > pretty much for you. If the bearing isn't
> > damaged, then this would be fine matienence.
> > However, if when you turn the bearing in the
> > beginning with your fingers from the inside
> > you feel any bumps or any discrepancies
> > while it's turning, then replace it. If for
> > any reason the race, or anything is damaged
> > replace it. All parts should still be
> > smooth. If there are gouges, cracks, flat
> > spots, anything like that then replace it. I
> > haven't done the bearings on my bus yet,
> > only on other cars in class, so things might
> > be slightly different, although I thought
> > that most wheel bearing were pretty much
> > universal. Also I'm no expert yet. This is
> > what I've learned on the subject so
> > far.......... :-) have fun, Tracy 85' GL
> > "Ripple" Damon Campbell
> > <damoncampbellvw@YAHOO.COM> wrote:Ok, so
> > honestly, most of my mechanic experience
> > comes from working on bicycles (paid a lot
> > of college that way...), so maybe this
> > doesn't apply because automotive bearings
> > are different than the light duty ones they
> > use on bikes...
> >
> > If there is play in a sealed cartridge (ie.
> > non-adjustable) bearing, will a re-pack
> > really do anything? The clearances between
> > balls and races have already opened up,
> > right? The most i can see a repack doing is
> > making it feel "tight" when subjected to the
> > nonexistant forces our measly fingers can
> > put out. Am i missing something here? -damon
> >
> > Tracy Bonin wrote:Hi, what you can do is run
> > your fingers along the inside of the
> > bearing, pressing on them, as the bearing is
> > turning you should be able to feel anything
> > that may mean the bearings need to be
> > re-packed, or replaced. If you just have
> > some play, that probably just means that
> > they need to be re-packed, a simple and
> > quick process, just messy.
> >
> > '84 Westy
> >
> >
> > ---------------------------------
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