Date: Sun, 16 Feb 2003 22:51:43 -0800
Reply-To: Mark Dorm <mark_hb@HOTMAIL.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Mark Dorm <mark_hb@HOTMAIL.COM>
Subject: Re: 91 GL problems
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed
The air filter is a pain, but I don't think its complex to just replace, if
thats what you meant... if you changed the sparks did you check the gap?
what kind of sparks did you add? I've just recently learned that I should be
checking the gap... thought I could trust that they were "preset"... as far
as the leaky head gaskets...
I've had really good luck using moroso engine ceramic sealer... but you
might want to wait (if you can) until water no longer freezes in your
climate... it would be nice if it could buy you time to deal with the head
gaskets in the optimal way (which to me is to just replace the whole engine
via boston bobs rebuild or via a suburu conversion - whats the point of
spending alot of money for headgaskets only to see a rod get thrown through
the block a few more miles down the road.. but that depends I guess on how
long you plan on keeping it...).
With the moroso there are two kinds a. coolant compatible (good) b. only to
be used with water and no coolant (better/best). To use it you should get a
hand on flushing out the coolant system... and ideally you should add
distilled water and let it seep through the system a few days before adding
any moroso (again in freezing temps this will mean a frozen coolant
system...) - that way any residual coolant stuck between the head gasket and
the head will have a chance to weep through until its clear (the type of
moroso which you can use with coolant is really for when you're stuck on the
roadside with a blown gasket... if you're going to do right in better
conditions.. use the water only type).
So really you could flush the system a few times with distilled water until
have really gotten rid of all the coolant.. and know how to use that
throttle from the engine bay and learn what approximately 2000 rpms sounds
like... read the bentley on adding coolant... nose has to be lifted higher
than rear... and you need a block of wood between the body and the floor
jacks (one on either side) when lifting the front... (cause the metal has a
gap in it, unlike the rear).
A lazy way to start flushing the system is to just start pouring coolant
into the resevoir while the engine is running (where the blue cap is) - but
you don't want splatter on the belts - so hold a large piece of cardboard
between the belts and the resevoir while you add distilled water (0.60/gal
at Wallmart) (I used one of my sunscreens meant for the front windshield
instead of cardboard - its a two piece sunscreen and lasts longer than
cardboard... only now I can't use it as a sunscreen)- doing this a little at
a time and over a number of days will clear out your coolant system... not
the best way to do it... but if you're pressed for time and want to start
sooner than later... (again when temps are warm... )
Then when you flush out the moroso (read their instructions... ) after
having used it... and its time for you to add coolant - use only VW
coolant... or list approved... just because a coolant says its safe for
aluminum doesn't mean its free of phosphate... VW coolant is only good for
one year (or less if you drive a whole lot) - the two colors of coolant
shouldn't be mixed - theres an orange type, I think Havoline (check with the
list) that'll last longer... only thing is, its known for gumming up
copper... which could ruin your heater cores (rear and front) - and someone
was telling there's Sierra coolant - which is good for the environment and
so safe a dog could drink it - and that its phosphate free - but I have no
real knowledge of their claims - though I'm curious to know more...
>From: Neil Curri <ncurri@MEDIA.MIT.EDU>
>
>I have a '91 GL that bucks just a little bit at lower RPMs. Unless the
>engine's working kinda hard - accelerating, climbing a hill, or just
>cruising at 3200-3500 RPMs (which is what it does in 4th gear at 60 MPH)
>- it sounds almost like the gear is either engaging or disengaging, or
>the engine's getting the gas in spurts. It doesn't pull the vehicle hard
>unless you're really bogging down at low RPMs like I suppose any engine
>would, but even at moderate rotations you hear the engine sort of
>working in spurts. I just had the spark plugs and cables replaced, which
>I thought would fix that, but it hasn't. I don't think I've changed my
>air filter for a looong time, but I'm not too handy with cars and the
>air filter looks complex. I just replaced the oil breather myself
>because the cap blew off, but my experience (and tools!) are limited.
>Would appreciate any advice.
>
>In addition, my head gasket is leaking, but there's no way I'll take
>that job on, even if I had the right tools. I searched the list archives
>to see if anyone had written about a good VW garage in CT and the only
>thing I found was a post regarding Hendrick's in Wallingford, which I
>don't think exists anymore. Can someone tell me if they know of any VW
>vanagon guys in CT? I've been to Europa Motors in Hamden and Montessi
>(the dealership) in North Haven, but now I'm looking for someone who
>might want to buy it and take on it's maintenance issues. I have a
>feeling I'm going to have a hard time selling it around here.
>
>thanks,
> -Neil
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