Date: Tue, 18 Feb 2003 09:22:58 -0500
Reply-To: Dennis Haynes <dhaynes@OPTONLINE.NET>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Dennis Haynes <dhaynes@OPTONLINE.NET>
Subject: Re: Getting AT rebuilt
In-Reply-To: <F12rK6UtEnUyR53YPkz00000cbb@hotmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Not improved, but correct. Using the proper seals, properly installed,
mixing the fluids is minimal. There is a weep hole between the seals
that exits out the bottom of the final drive housing. Any oil that gets
pat a seal should drip out here.
Dennis
-----Original Message-----
From: Mark Dorm [mailto:mark_hb@hotmail.com]
Sent: Tuesday, February 18, 2003 1:50 AM
To: dhaynes@optonline.net; vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
Subject: Re: Getting AT rebuilt
So are you saying that VW improved the seals... since they're OEM and
OM...
(isn't that what that means?)... that would be nice, cause those seals
are
none for letting the two different types of oils intermix, aren't they?
(though I'm not sure at what mileage point that occurs - does changing
the
ATF more regularly help to keep those seals lasting longer?)
>From: Dennis Haynes <dhaynes@OPTONLINE.NET>
>
>The quoted price for labor seems reasonable, if not low. Of course they
>paln on making profit on the parts. The labor is not enough to keep
most
>shops in business. As a transmission shop they already have connections
>to get all the low ball parts available to transmission shops. Just
make
>sure they do not charge dealer list for any parts not supplied by a VW
>dealer. For example, the dealer will charge ~ $140 for the second gear
>brake band. The after market imitation will cost the shop ~$20. I've
>found that the seals for the final drive and between the auto and final
>drive should come from the dealer so they fit and work. In particular,
>the seals between the sections need space between them so any oil that
>gets past a seal can run out the drain hole. The OEM seal have stops on
>them to make sure this happens. The Vanagon torque converter is a rare
>piece. Yours will probably have to be rebuilt. This is done by cutting
>it open. Cleaning and replacing internal parts as needed, welding back
>together, leak testing and balancing. If you insist on supplying parts,
>don't be surprised if the shop says no warranty.
>
>Dennis
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM] On Behalf
>Of Edward Maglott
>Sent: Monday, February 17, 2003 5:45 PM
>To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
>Subject: Getting AT rebuilt
>
>I am in need of rebuilding the AT in our '86 Westy. I talked today to
a
>reputable and recommended rebuilder here in town. I had thought about
>pulling the tranny and carrying it to them, but it is only $100 labor
>additional fro them to do the R&R. I figure that would also take out
of
>the picture any (real or suspected) possibility that I mess something
up
>on
>the reinstall. They quote $325 for the labor including R&R. They give
>no
>indication how much the parts will cost. They say this labor quote
will
>include replacing seals in the final drive. This sounds pretty
>reasonable
>to me. I am wondering if they make a chink of profit on marking up the
>parts. What parts am I pretty sure they will need, that I can buy
ahead
>of
>time to cut that down? I would want a new/rebuilt Torque converter.
>And I
>guess there is a gasket set they will need? I think Frank Condelli
once
>pointed me to a cheap source for a "kit" for the trans. Any help
>appreciated.
>Edward
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