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Date:         Wed, 19 Feb 2003 14:24:58 -0700
Reply-To:     Ben McCafferty <ben@VOLKSCAFE.COM>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Ben McCafferty <ben@VOLKSCAFE.COM>
Subject:      Re: rear wheel wobble
Comments: To: Tracy Bonin <icculus22420@YAHOO.COM>
In-Reply-To:  <20030219205833.58903.qmail@web80206.mail.yahoo.com>
Content-type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"

Is anyone beside me thinking he should check the torque on the lug nuts as well as the crown nut to see if things are loose? tx, bmc :) Ben McCafferty ben@volkscafe.com

Volks Cafe 1823 Soquel Avenue Santa Cruz, CA 95062 831-426-1244 http://volkscafe.com

> From: Tracy Bonin <icculus22420@YAHOO.COM> > Reply-To: Tracy Bonin <icculus22420@YAHOO.COM> > Date: Wed, 19 Feb 2003 12:58:33 -0800 > To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM > Subject: Re: rear wheel wobble > > Well, actually from what I learned in class last week ( I am going to Baran > Institute of Tech for Automotive Technology :-) ) ( I am in chassis portion > right now ) , is that the races aren't sealed to the cage that the bearings go > into. The race is within the wheel, the cage is within that, the bearings are > within the cage. The bearing lube is between / inside the cage with the > bearings. It has the ability to seep out, and get nasty enough to where as a > change in grease can help emensly, if not fix the problem if the bearing > itself isn't damaged. > To re-pack a wheel bearing, put a glob of the bearing grease in the palm of > your hand and hold the bearing with the other. Hold a specific spot on the > bearing (so theres a space between for the goop to get through), and scrap > away at the glob until the old nasty crap comes out of the top. Do this around > the whole bearing. This is repacking. You can also buy a bearing repacker, > which will do the work pretty much for you. If the bearing isn't damaged, then > this would be fine matienence. However, if when you turn the bearing in the > beginning with your fingers from the inside you feel any bumps or any > discrepancies while it's turning, then replace it. If for any reason the race, > or anything is damaged replace it. All parts should still be smooth. If there > are gouges, cracks, flat spots, anything like that then replace it. > I haven't done the bearings on my bus yet, only on other cars in class, so > things might be slightly different, although I thought that most wheel bearing > were pretty much universal. Also I'm no expert yet. This is what I've learned > on the subject so far.......... :-) > have fun, > Tracy > 85' GL "Ripple" > Damon Campbell <damoncampbellvw@YAHOO.COM> wrote:Ok, so honestly, most of my > mechanic experience comes from working on bicycles (paid a lot of college that > way...), so maybe this doesn't apply because automotive bearings are different > than the light duty ones they use on bikes... > > If there is play in a sealed cartridge (ie. non-adjustable) bearing, will a > re-pack really do anything? The clearances between balls and races have > already opened up, right? The most i can see a repack doing is making it feel > "tight" when subjected to the nonexistant forces our measly fingers can put > out. Am i missing something here? > -damon > > Tracy Bonin wrote:Hi, what you can do is run your fingers along the inside of > the bearing, pressing on them, as the bearing is turning you should be able to > feel anything that may mean the bearings need to be re-packed, or replaced. If > you just have some play, that probably just means that they need to be > re-packed, a simple and quick process, just messy. > > '84 Westy > > > --------------------------------- > Do you Yahoo!? > Yahoo! Shopping - Send Flowers for Valentine's Day


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