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Date:         Fri, 21 Feb 2003 19:55:44 -0500
Reply-To:     "G.M.Bulley" <gmbulley@BULLEY-HEWLETT.COM>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         "G.M.Bulley" <gmbulley@BULLEY-HEWLETT.COM>
Organization: Bulley-Hewlett
Subject:      Re: A Homemade Waxoyl Experiment.........
In-Reply-To:  <000601c2d9c0$15ff5b40$082aa8c0@mystation.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

Why not just buy flooding wax at an autobody supply place? It doesn't cost much, $10-$20 for a couple bricks, and it is designed for automotive use.

From DC/Baltimore G. Matthew Bulley

WAR--A real threat to US Citizens? Blood for oil? Or an elaborate sideshow to distract attention from more pressing national problems the Administration can't seem to solve?

-----Original Message----- From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM] On Behalf Of Jay Brown Sent: Friday, February 21, 2003 10:44 AM To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM Subject: Re: A Homemade Waxoyl Experiment.........

Hi Phil,

Any paraffin candle wax will have "fuel" in it, as it is refined from crude oil. Likewise, all wax will burn on its own without the aid of a wick or other direct source of flame. If memory serves me correctly, the flash point of most commonly available paraffin waxes is between 375-450F.

You are right to suspect that your alter candle is less than stellar in quality though. Usually container candles like these use the cheapest wax available and have a very low melt point (~120F). Many manufacturers also try to stretch their wax yeild by adding different types of oils (vegetable or mineral) and other additives like stearic acid. What you are left with is a low quality candle which doesn't burn well and is usually thrown away with about 3/4 of the wax remaining in the jar.

If you are planning to keep experimenting, I have a couple of suggestions. Going for a more highly refined paraffin is a great idea, hit the craft store, or try the canning section at your local supermarket (the canning waxes are very pure, as they will come into direct contact with food). Also, you might acheive better results using mineral oil available at the pharmacy instead of motor oil. Don't go for baby oil, it has fragrance that you don't want in your mixture, may also lower the flash point.

I would try something like the following for a starting point and then adjust from there:

1lb paraffin wax 4oz Microcrystaline wax (optional) - try the craft store or www.candlemaking.com (sold as Micro Wax) 1qt pure mineral oil 1pt turpentine (mineral spirits might be better?)

Heat your wax in a double boiler to avoid scorching or combustion. Or better yet, get one of the little chef's pot deep fryers that has a thermostatic control to act as your wax melter. Set it to 200-250F and throw in all of the wax. Once the wax is melted, turn the heat down as low as possible and add the mineral oil. Pour into a steel or glass bowl and let cool until the mixture congeals to a jello-like consistency. Add one cup turpentine and mix well. Add additional turpentine in small amounts until the mixture reaches a nice brushable consistency at room temperature.

The resulting mixture should have a considerably higher flash point than your original recipe, as the ammount of turpentine is decreased significantly. The addition of the microcystaline wax will help it stick to everything it touches, if you can't find it, don't worry about it.

Will it work? I don't know... But it is worth a try. With some experimentation, you should be able to devise a recipe that will protect metal surfaces well, yet not burst into flames unexpectedly. Be aware that in direct summertime sunlight, this stuff might tend to migrate and flow a little bit if you put it on real thick. Shouldn't be too much of a problem on the undercarriage though..

Now that I have typed all of this out, another option that is probably far safer and simpler occurs to me. Use the afforementioned deep fryer to heat the paraffin wax and mineral oil to about 200F (use a candy or meat thermometer) and then brush this on to whatever metal surface you want to protect. No turpentine needed, so less inherrent flamability issues. I think I will try this approach with a few of my garden tools and see how it works there. If my results are good, on to the VW's before next winter.

You would never guess that my previous career was in the candle industry, would you...

Good Luck! Jay Brown '85 Vanagon Westfalia '72 Hardtop Camper

http://www.geocities.com/vwcamper72

Date: Fri, 21 Feb 2003 04:31:03 -0800 From: "Phil S." <napszeerf@YAHOO.COM> Subject: Re: A Homemade Waxoyl Experiment.........

Johnny, I did not throw a match into a "heated petroleum liquid:, i let it cool and harden 1st. I didnt do a test batch to see IF it would ignite, i wanted to see how EASILY it ignited.......ive got rust near my engine bay which gets pretty hot.

I think the Jesus Candle i used has fuel mixed into it....Its made in Mexico where fuel is dirt cheap i suppose sheaper than candle wax. Im going to try to use some real candle wax soon.

Phil 84' Westy w/Tiico


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