Date: Wed, 19 Feb 2003 16:22:24 -0600
Reply-To: Stan Wilder <wilden1@JUNO.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Stan Wilder <wilden1@JUNO.COM>
Subject: Re: rear wheel wobble
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Let's see ................ the bearings are 19 years old, probably the
seals too.
If it wobbles its parts not grease or the lack of grease.
Vanagons have some special bearings ................ hurry up and take a
look.
Stan Wilder
On Wed, 19 Feb 2003 12:58:33 -0800 Tracy Bonin <icculus22420@YAHOO.COM>
writes:
> Well, actually from what I learned in class last week ( I am going to
> Baran Institute of Tech for Automotive Technology :-) ) ( I am in
> chassis portion right now ) , is that the races aren't sealed to the
> cage that the bearings go into. The race is within the wheel, the
> cage is within that, the bearings are within the cage. The bearing
> lube is between / inside the cage with the bearings. It has the
> ability to seep out, and get nasty enough to where as a change in
> grease can help emensly, if not fix the problem if the bearing
> itself isn't damaged.
> To re-pack a wheel bearing, put a glob of the bearing grease in the
> palm of your hand and hold the bearing with the other. Hold a
> specific spot on the bearing (so theres a space between for the goop
> to get through), and scrap away at the glob until the old nasty crap
> comes out of the top. Do this around the whole bearing. This is
> repacking. You can also buy a bearing repacker, which will do the
> work pretty much for you. If the bearing isn't damaged, then this
> would be fine matienence. However, if when you turn the bearing in
> the beginning with your fingers from the inside you feel any bumps
> or any discrepancies while it's turning, then replace it. If for any
> reason the race, or anything is damaged replace it. All parts should
> still be smooth. If there are gouges, cracks, flat spots, anything
> like that then replace it.
> I haven't done the bearings on my bus yet, only on other cars in
> class, so things might be slightly different, although I thought
> that most wheel bearing were pretty much universal. Also I'm no
> expert yet. This is what I've learned on the subject so
> far.......... :-)
> have fun,
> Tracy
> 85' GL "Ripple"
> Damon Campbell <damoncampbellvw@YAHOO.COM> wrote:Ok, so honestly,
> most of my mechanic experience comes from working on bicycles (paid a
> lot of college that way...), so maybe this doesn't apply because
> automotive bearings are different than the light duty ones they use
> on bikes...
>
> If there is play in a sealed cartridge (ie. non-adjustable) bearing,
> will a re-pack really do anything? The clearances between balls and
> races have already opened up, right? The most i can see a repack
> doing is making it feel "tight" when subjected to the nonexistant
> forces our measly fingers can put out. Am i missing something here?
> -damon
>
> Tracy Bonin wrote:Hi, what you can do is run your fingers along the
> inside of the bearing, pressing on them, as the bearing is turning
> you should be able to feel anything that may mean the bearings need
> to be re-packed, or replaced. If you just have some play, that
> probably just means that they need to be re-packed, a simple and
> quick process, just messy.
>
> '84 Westy
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Do you Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! Shopping - Send Flowers for Valentine's Day
>
>
________________________________________________________________
Sign Up for Juno Platinum Internet Access Today
Only $9.95 per month!
Visit www.juno.com
| 
