HOORAH!!! The clutch is bled!!! Here is the poop. In my case I had to replace the clutch master cylinder down by the floor at the steering wheel column. Per Stan Wilder I was very careful to avoid distrubing anything and upsetting the fluid in the line downstream from the mastercylinder. Once done and the new one was ready to go, I filled the fluid reservoir, then backed off the gland nut at the bottom of the master cylinder and allowed the fluid to drip through for a bit. I then closed the gland nut tight. Someone in one of the posts in response to my query about bleeding the clutch, mentioned self venting of the line upstream from the mastercylinder. So, I got in the driver seat, started pumping the clutch pedal. Around 30 strokes I began to "get a pedal"! I continued stroking and in a few moments I had full pressure for the pedal. A test drive proved positive and now all is well with the world. It was an "easy do" once I got all the parts , tools and knowledge in place. Hope this helps somebody else doing this job. I also replaced the right brake line. The upper fitting was a problem to get it loose. I wound up giving it a shot of Marvels Mystery Oil - the real oil, not the fuel and oil additive - in in one hour I was able to loosen the fitting. Changed the hose and bled the brake. An "Easy Do". Next project .......swap the O2 sensor. Anybody got any input on how to get the old one out without it becoming a major production?? John Rodgers 88 GlLDriver |
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