Date: Mon, 10 Mar 2003 18:34:23 -0500
Reply-To: Dennis Haynes <dhaynes@OPTONLINE.NET>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Dennis Haynes <dhaynes@OPTONLINE.NET>
Subject: Re: Power plans and questions
In-Reply-To: <3E6D19F8.8050303@fluid.com>
Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Answers Below!
-----Original Message-----
From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM] On Behalf
Of Mark Belanger
Sent: Monday, March 10, 2003 6:04 PM
To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
Subject: Re: Power plans and questions
Dennis Haynes wrote:
> Is the device a secret? It would easier for us to help if we know what
> it is and how long you need to use it.
No secret. It's a PC. I just wanted to avoid the inevitable "why not
just use a laptop" comments that would be launched by the peanut
gallery.
I would consider the laptop due to space limitations. You would probably
need an inverter anyway. Most are now using 16 volt supplies.
It has a pretty slick DC-DC power supply that's tied to ignition. When
the ignition is off, a configurable delay sends a power-down single to
the motherboard.
Obviously a custom!
> The cab lights and light in the
> back of the Westy is actually feed from the front fuse box. Fuse #3 I
> think. The two fuses near the sink cabinet are for the refrigerator,
> water pump, and control panel. One is connected to the switched side
of
> the relay so that it is energized only when the alternator is
charging.
> The relay actually uses the idiot light circuit for the alternator.
The
> ground for the relay is provided through the starter solenoid. I guess
> the plan was to also disable the relay while the engine was cranking.
Of
> I've never seen the alternator energize while before the engine
actually
> started anyway! This provides power for the refrigerator 12v heating
> coil. The other wire is connected directly to the main power feed has
> power all the time. It operates the fridge cooling fan, controls,
> indicator lamps, and the sink water pump.
Interesting. I got that incorrect idea from the write-up on
Vanagon.com. Very detailed response. Thank you.
> 12.5 amps is a fairly heavy load. If you want to run the fridge on 12
> volts, you need another 8. 12.5 amps should be feed by 14 gauge wire.
Yeah, after I sent the post, I came to the conclusion that I needed a
direct run to the battery.
> With 2-3 weeks run time for the fridge on propane, I see no reason the
> run it on battery when parked anyway. For your 12.5 amp load, you will
> only get a few hours (4-5), on fully charged optima. It takes many
hours
> of driving the charge a battery so keep in mind how this will be used.
Wait. Can one run the propane fridge while moving? I was under the
impression that you couldn't. That's the only reason I'd run it off DC
and just to keep an already chilled fridge cool.
If the Fridge is working properly, it can be used on propane while
driving except on some bridges and in some tunnels. Of course, be sure
to turn it off while re-fueling or getting propane. It is a flame and
who knows what can happen if the fumes from a spill should reach the
flame chamber. Most RV refrigerators do not even have a 12 volt option
anymore.
Is the stock alternator capable of driving a worst case scenario:
headlights, radio, interior light, fridge and computer?
The stock 90 amp alternator has plenty of capacity. Unfortunately, the
wiring does not. A larger wire should be run from the alternator to the
fuse box and high power accessories. Some people add additional wiring
to the battery, but the real energy source is the alternator while under
way.
Thanks again for the detailed response,
-MB
--
Your Welcome,
Dennis
_______________________________________________________________________
Mark Belanger - belanger@fluid.com