Date: Sun, 9 Mar 2003 11:21:50 -0500
Reply-To: Joachim Preiss <spielmobil@SNUTTIG.NET>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Joachim Preiss <spielmobil@SNUTTIG.NET>
Subject: Re: Bleeding the clutch.
In-Reply-To: <3E6B57D7.4030207@charter.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
I am in the process of replacing the clutch master cylinder myself, and was
browsing German T3 sites last night hoping I would learn how to bleed the
clutch hydraulics. This is what I found:
According to several posts on the German Bulliforum http://t3forum.de/,
it's pretty easy. The front clutch hydraulics bleeds on its own due to the
reservoir sitting on top of the master cylinder. Just keep pressing and
depressing the clutch 20 times and air in the system will work its way up to
the reservoir. To bleed the slave cylinder in the engine bay, open the
bleeder screw 1/2 turn, and put a clear PVC hose over it. Make sure it
doesn't leak. Put the other end of the hose in a glass filled with some
break fluid. This avoids air being sucked in. Now have an assistant press
and depress the clutch until no more air bubbles escape through the hose.
Tighten the bleeder screw while the pedal is pressed. Done.
As I said this is what I found on that forum and I haven't tried it yet
myself. Good thing you don't have to crawl under your vehicle, but you need
an assistant. Let me know if it worked for you.
I am planning to change the break fluid at the same time, as I don't know
how old it is. Bleeding the breaks appears to be similar just times 4 for
each wheel separately. On the other hand I got a feeling I shouldn't mess
with the breaks as they're my parachute and I don't want that to fail.
Cheers
Joachim
Acton, MA
[mailto:spielmobil@snuttig.net}
'85 Westfalia 1.9WBX 'Spielmobil'
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com]On Behalf
> Of John Rodgers
> Sent: Sunday, March 09, 2003 10:04
> To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
> Subject: Bleeding the clutch.
>
>
> OK, guys, (and ladies)
>
> I have installed the new clutch master and I have filled the fluid
> tank. I have applied Stan Wilders idea to open the bolt at the bottom
> of the cylinder (its a hollow bold/gland nut type arrangement) and
> allowed the air to bleed out and fluid to drip out, hopefully filling
> the clutch fluid line, and the cylinder. I have closed the gland nut
> connection and stepped on the pedal. NADA! Absolutely no pedal.
>
> So now what? The Bently says pressure bleed from the slave cylinder.
> Some list members have said use a pressure bleeder. OK.
>
> But I need to understand how that clutch hydraulics work beyond the fact
> that you push the pedal which pushed the fluid which pushes the clutch
> actuating arm on the clutch housing.
>
> Are there return springs in the master and slave cylinders. Or does the
> spring pressure of the clutch pressing against the clutch actuating arm
> apply pressure backward against the piston in the slave cylinder which
> in turn pushing fluid backward to the clutch master which pushes the
> clutch master piston back up to contact the clutch pedal plunger rod?????
>
> Is this why pressure bleeding from the slave cylinder is required? To
> simulate the clutch spring return pressure to drive the fluid back up
> through the system? I'm just trying to understand it, and Bentleys is
> worthless in this regard.
>
> Finally, isn't there some way to pressure bleed the thing without having
> to go out and buy an expensive pressure bleeder?? Or is there some
> simple little thing like a Mighty Vac that is applied to brake bleeding,
> but is instead usable for clutch bleeding?
>
> Really would appreciate some input on this one. I'm old, I'm slow, and
> my back hurts. I am dreading having to crawl underneath to do this
> bleeding but I will, but I only want to it once, so I want to be sure I
> am armed with understanding and the right tools for the job.
>
> Thanks,
>
> John Rodgers
> 88 GL Driver
>
>
>
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