Date:         Sat, 8 Mar 2003 18:36:40 +0000
Reply-To:     Mike Finkbiner <mike_l_f@HOTMAIL.COM>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Mike Finkbiner <mike_l_f@HOTMAIL.COM>
Subject:      Re: refrigerator removal and fan upgrades?
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed

Steve Delanty <laurasdog@WEIRDSTUFFWEMAKE.COM> said -

<SNIP>
The Bentley book makes it look pretty easy to remove the fridge.
One gas line and a couple electrical things to disconnect, and
remove a few screws and it slides right out...  right?
Any "gotchas" to look out for here that Bentley doesn't mention?
(Bentley makes changing the hall sensor in the distributor look
easy too, but I hear it's not)

Second question...
The temp switch for the fan...  what temperature is it supposed
to turn on at? I'd like to test it and/or replace it while the fridge
is out. If I knew what temp it was, I'd just pick up a new one
while I'm out tomorrow.  Anyone know?

Anything else I should do or look at while the fridge is out?
<SNIP>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

Steve -

It does take some wiggling around.  Here's a few things I remember, in no
particular order.

When removing the outside vent cover, pay close attention to the way it
comes apart.  Look for rust.  I replaced the screws with stainless.

Check for signs of rust on the metal behind the refrigerator, remove the
insulation if necessary to check.

Be very careful bending and wiggling the flexible vent when removing the
refrigerator.  Remove the small square vent on the side of the cabinet up
near the window to allow access.

Consider insulating the flexible vent with fiberglass.  The gas heater needs
warm air going up the vent to bring fresh air in, and I believe it starts
better if the air column is insulated, because it will warm up faster.

The metal drain pipe on the bottom of the refrigerator doesn't have any
protection.  Be careful not to damage it, and have something to support the
unit on so it doesn't rest on the pipe.

Blow out the dirt in that pipe and the burner box.

You can check operation of the refrigerator while out by attaching a
regulator and propane tank from a gas grill and providing a 12v power source
from a battery charger, etc.

I don't know the termperature at which the thermocouple is supposed to
switch on, but it's pretty warm.  To test it, you will need to insulate the
back of the unit and get it pretty hot.   I had the refrigerator running on
the bench, on gas, with an electric heater blowing on the back end and a
thermometer in next to the cooling fins.

You might consider replacing the single fan with a couple of small muffin
fans, available at Radio Shack.  Be sure to check direction of air flow!  At
the time I was playing around I thought about adding a second thermo-switch
at a higher temperature to turn on the second, but that's more complex than
you need.  It might have been nice to put a switch on the second fan so you
could leave it off at night, and cut the noise level when things turn on,
but the two muffin fans are a lot quieter than the single stock fan.

Good luck!

- Mike

Mike Finkbiner
'87 Westy
Moscow, ID
mike_l_f@hotmail.com

Perception is more real than truth, and belief turns truth into lies.    -
Kedar Nan



_________________________________________________________________
Tired of spam? Get advanced junk mail protection with MSN 8.
http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail