Date: Thu, 3 Apr 2003 10:14:01 -0500
Reply-To: Marla Stelk <mjstelk@HOTMAIL.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Marla Stelk <mjstelk@HOTMAIL.COM>
Subject: Re: idle stabilizer valve question
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed
Zoikes, Fishman - nothings easy, eh? Unfortunately, I'm not rich - so I
guess I'll have to call around and see if I can borrow someone's used ISV.
Thanks for all the info. and advise!
Peace,
Marla
'87 Westy GL Van "Morrison"
>From: "Robert Steven Fish" <fish@salzburg.co.at>
>To: "Marla Stelk" <mjstelk@HOTMAIL.COM>,<vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM>
>Subject: Re: idle stabilizer valve question
>Date: Wed, 2 Apr 2003 22:07:52 +0200
>
>First thing... are you rich?
>
>If so, then buy the parts and try them and see what happens.
>
>If not, then try this... Go through all the major ground wires on the
>Vanagon, and be certain that they are sound. Better yet, replace them all
>if they are original and show corrosion and/or brittleness. Especially
>inportant is the engine block to chassis ground strap on the driver's side.
>This one often corrodes, and breaks when the A/C compressor belt is being
>tightened, as it sits directly below the A/C.
>
>Then, trade out your existing ISV with a known good used one from a friend.
>If this really solves your problem, it can be assumed that your ISV is
>either throughouly coated with carbonized filth inside... or just plain
>broken. You can try to soak yours in brake cleaner overnight, and then
>spraying it, until it runs out clear... sometimes you can clean them, and
>they will work again.
>
>If however, the known good ISV does NOT solve the problem (which it
>probably
>won't) then you may have the more common problem, and that is a "fried"
>Idle
>Stabilizer Control Unit. This little black box sits behind your right rear
>taillight, and is actually a mini ECU. It is common for a defective or
>dirty ISV to cause the voltage regulator to burn out on the ISCU. If yours
>is part number 251 907 393 B then there are higher odds that it is fried
>(as
>that is the older model which has a weaker voltage regulator). The newer
>one is 251 907 393 D and if you have to get a new one (or a used one) then
>get this one, and not the "B" unit.
>
>Anyway... the thing to remember here, is that simply disconnecting your ISV
>is not telling you the whole story, as there are other components in the
>circuit that you are also cutting out by unplugging the ISV.
>
>Most shops will not replace the ISV alone. They will insist on replacing
>the ISCU too.. and on the surface this looks like a nasty trick to get some
>extra business... but in actually does make sense. If you have a bad ISV
>then chances are high that it burned out the ISCU. If you have a known
>good
>ISCU and a known good ISV, then you can test them both at once... but DO
>NOT
>test a known good ISCU with a questionable ISV, as it can burn the ISCU
>out.
>
>each of these components can cost well over 200 bucks... so it is advisable
>to test things out and find what you really need.
>
>There are also several postings in the archives from about 5 months ago,
>when we were discussing this all, and there are a few tips and tricks to
>testing and troubleshooting the system there too.
>
>Good luck, and I hope that this helps you get back to normal idle.
>
>RSF
>
>
>IMPORTANT!!! In order to reply to me, you must have the word "FISH"
>somewhere in the subject line of the email. Otherwise it goes directly in
>the trash.
>
><º)))>{ <º)))>{ <º)))>{ <º)))>{ <º)))>{ <º)))>{
>
>Robert S. Fish
>Salzburg, Austria
>1987 Wolfsburg Vanagon 2.1 GL Weekender
>1987 Golf Cabriolet
>1991 Golf
>
> I'm about
> > to order a new ISV - mine is looking rusty and old - but wanted to see
>if
> > anyone out there in VW land had any other ideas of things that might be
> > wrong to check out first so I don't waste money.
>
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